- Thu Jan 31, 2019 9:03 pm
#31697
Wanted to start a topic for reference material, experience, and case histories of using 3D printer to fab parts for using in Speeduino implementation.
I will start the topic off with the injector insert that I use to hold the injector in the throat of my throttle body.
I am using nylon from eSun part number EPA175N1. It is difficult to work with and the recommended temperature setting for printing are not working well for me. I find that I must crank my nozzle temperature up to 260 and bed temperature to 55-60.
I changed the bed to a glass plate. I use Elmers washable school glue to prime the surface of the glass before printing and wash it off after printing.
It is much easier to remove the part if the bed is warm.
Often the first layer that is printed on the glass will come loose from the part if the bed is not warm.
A question was raised on another thread of "what it the glass transition temperature" At the time I did not understand the question but now I know that it means the temperature (from Wiki)
"The glass–liquid transition, or glass transition, is the gradual and reversible transition in amorphous materials, from a hard and relatively brittle "glassy" state into a viscous or rubbery state as the temperature is increased.
The glass-transition temperature Tg of a material characterizes the range of temperatures over which this glass transition occurs. It is always lower than the melting temperature, Tm, of the crystalline state of the material, if one exists. "
So according to what I can find my part are going to get soggy and rubbery in the application I am using them. So I need to rethink my material that I will use for this project.
I sent a question to the manufacturer of the filament but I dont think I am going to like the answer.
http://www.esun3d.net/products/209.html
I will start the topic off with the injector insert that I use to hold the injector in the throat of my throttle body.
I am using nylon from eSun part number EPA175N1. It is difficult to work with and the recommended temperature setting for printing are not working well for me. I find that I must crank my nozzle temperature up to 260 and bed temperature to 55-60.
I changed the bed to a glass plate. I use Elmers washable school glue to prime the surface of the glass before printing and wash it off after printing.
It is much easier to remove the part if the bed is warm.
Often the first layer that is printed on the glass will come loose from the part if the bed is not warm.
A question was raised on another thread of "what it the glass transition temperature" At the time I did not understand the question but now I know that it means the temperature (from Wiki)
"The glass–liquid transition, or glass transition, is the gradual and reversible transition in amorphous materials, from a hard and relatively brittle "glassy" state into a viscous or rubbery state as the temperature is increased.
The glass-transition temperature Tg of a material characterizes the range of temperatures over which this glass transition occurs. It is always lower than the melting temperature, Tm, of the crystalline state of the material, if one exists. "
So according to what I can find my part are going to get soggy and rubbery in the application I am using them. So I need to rethink my material that I will use for this project.
I sent a question to the manufacturer of the filament but I dont think I am going to like the answer.
http://www.esun3d.net/products/209.html
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