Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
User avatar
By gpineau
#47537
It's the latest version of Cura. 4.8.0
you can see the support it builds on one view but some sort of messed up support on the other. Same model just rotated 180 degrees.
Attachments
support2.JPG
support2.JPG (38.41 KiB) Viewed 4348 times
support.JPG
support.JPG (32.71 KiB) Viewed 4348 times
By LPG2CV
#47540
I use Slic3r

you could try setting the overhang threshold to zero. However you would think it would work either way!
User avatar
By gpineau
#48612
I have 3 new NO2C board cases.
The board sits in the left side ad the connector exits our the right side.
Three cases for three connectors.
I made them public. You can search for them by name on tinkercad.
1. 35 pin automotive connector I have been messing with.
2. Two DB15 connectors
3. 50 Pin Centronics connector

Drill your own holes.
Attachments
20210130_113330.jpg
20210130_113330.jpg (3.06 MiB) Viewed 4058 times
20210130_113350.jpg
20210130_113350.jpg (3.86 MiB) Viewed 4058 times
NO2C TinkerCad.JPG
NO2C TinkerCad.JPG (28.39 KiB) Viewed 4060 times
By LPG2CV
#48614
I was just looking at Dsub-15's myself. I've been trying to learn KiCad to see if I can make a breakout board for 404 board. :) ....... I may be some time. :lol:
User avatar
By gpineau
#48616
I tried to design a board to go from NO2C to the 35 pin connector. I could get Kicad to rout because I didnt have the correct files to describe the 35 pin connector.

If you ever get fluent in Kicad pleas tutor me.
User avatar
By PSIG
#48618
Trying to be constructive; it sounds like you tried to crimp a wire too large for the terminal size in the automotive connector, or crimped improperly/wrong tool. Or it was a cheap copy and failed like many fakes do. Could any of those be the root issue? Standardized automotive connectors should be 100% solutions with many types and styles to choose from.

The DA-15 isn't too bad as far as D-subs go, as the connection support is better for the number of pins, relative to similar D-sub connectors with more pins like the DB-25 or DC-37. Still (and you know what I'm going to say, but I'm saying it again), I can't count the number of issues I've dealt with directly due to the use of D-sub connectors.

They are not designed for vibrating installations, nor at high current, nor for the wire sizes we need to use (20AWG/0.5mm2 minimum). Add to that the temptation of sellers or buyers to use cheap connectors from overseas (more failures) instead of the $10 panel-mount Amphenol waterproof versions, and you have headaches looking for a victim. On-top of that, they can be a real pain to use the screws or spring clips in tighter installations. Do what makes you giggle, but D-subs have taken a lot of the giggles out of things for me too often. IMO, spend your $10 on a connector system appropriate for those automotive factors above for best success.
By LPG2CV
#48621
Possibly, the manufacturer's website, may have a downloadable foot print.
By LPG2CV
#48637
@gpineau

I'm having some success, but I don't know, what I don't know :)
Attachments
404 40 pin breakout.png
404 40 pin breakout.png (124.24 KiB) Viewed 3916 times
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