[vandea05]

I have to second what was said about printing patterns and metal casting from them. If you are in Australia, and patient, I do aluminium, bronze and steel casting at work and can slip smaller stuff in under the radar. Making printed moulds and resin casting from them is also worth looking at, as there are high temperature resins out there, and you may be able to add powdered metals to them to attain the resilience you need.

As far as injection moulding goes, there is a book by Gingery on the subject which may prove suitable for small parts. You'll either want access to a mill, or a very clean casting. Think of the die grinding as an intro to porting!

If you need any advice or feedback on pattern or mould design, give me a yell and I'll do what I can.

EDIT- I totally forgot what I was initially going to say! Things like plastic intake manifolds work because the air flowing through them keeps them cool. Worth keeping in mind. Most under bonnet plastics tend to be injection or rotor moulded ABS. Wouldn't want to push hot pressurized air through one!

[gpineau]

What I have learned about printing nylon on my Ender-3.
Yours may be different but on my Ender-3 (original) these things work for me.

The filament that I have recommends 230-245 degrees c for nozzle temperature. I have learned that on my Ender-3 it works best at 260 c.

I replaced the bed with glass and set the bed temperature to 70 c.

I am using Cura 4.0 for the slicing. I set it for 90% infill. no support.

I bake the spool in the oven @ 180 degrees F for 4 hours to remove moisture..

I store the spool in a zip-lock bag when I am not using it.

When I begin to have trouble with layers not sticking together and it become brittle, It is time to bake the spool again.

[LPG2CV]

Thanks G
That's useful as I was thinking of getting a spool of nylon.

Is there any issue with warping?

[gpineau]

So far all my nylon prints have been small. Less than a couple inches. I have not experienced any warping.

I cant say anything about warping on larger parts.

My last print broke in half ( layer to layer) when I removed it from the bed. So the spool is in the oven for the next 4 hours.

[gpineau]

https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... with-nylon

[Experion]

Im using DSM Novamid ID1030-CF10 which is supposed to be very high temp resistant.
Its nylon with carbon fibre in it.

https://plasticsfinder.com/en/datasheet ... CF10/x8AVy
Thats a link to it.

Im printing it using my Prusa I3 MK2S with a 0.6mm e3d Nozzle X
for adhesion I am using glue stick on the stock PEI sheet and it does not warp at all
I have printed pretty large solid parts and it sticks realy well and does not come loose during printing
Im using a Polybox from Polymaker to keep the filament dry which keeps it at 10% humidity for a few weeks and after that it slowly goes up but i plan my prints in advance so most of the spool is printed by then.

Some pics of my intake project:

Intake Top


Intake Bottom


Print quality close-up


Peek at injector from inside


The intake consists of 3d printed parts, CNC turned parts and tig welded stainless sheet metal
there are trumpets that connect the 3d printed parts to the plenum so the air does not touch the silicone hoses.

-Experion

[gpineau]

Sweet,
Am I understanding right that this intake bolts directly to the head or is there something else between this and the head?

Interesting enough to order a pound spool to play with.

[Experion]

I have lasercut a Viton gasket which goes in between but thats it

[PSIG]

Cool. Filaments get better all the time! Carbon fiber reinforcements are often electrically conductive. Any testing to see if that's true in this stuff?

David

[Experion]

I probably dont have the correct equipment to measure that, but when measuring its resistance im not getting any reading even with the probes at a 1mm distance apart, so im guesing if its conductive its not much