[Serra.marc]

Thank you very much for your help!! at the end I put the ignition degrees at 280º, apparently it starts well cold and remains stable. As soon as I have more progress I will open a topic with the whole process of my speeduino and my keihin carburetors in my megane. now I am learning to interpret graphs with megalog viewer.

the best thing is that the renault 60-2 wheel works !!!

greeting!!

[linkus]

Hold on to your horses here comes a MEGA UPDATE!

Okey so long time ish no write, have been in a bit of a dip of motivation for my clio build and things have progressed quite slow the past year or two...three?

So here is the rundown on what has happend since I left you guys.

The blue clio that you guys saw me weld on has been sold, I finised up the paint, did a service on the engine cambelt pulleys waterpump and the works


The colour is not 100% but it got alot better after some clearcoat and a polish


I actually took the engine out to change the belt and stuff, its so...much...easier! Holy damn its tight as a rhinos a** with it in situe.




I also swapped out a seal in the steering rack that was leaking while the engine was out.



Engine back in the car and he saw the sunshine for the first time in years!



Purrs almost as a kitten (a little bit tappy but that usually goes away efter the engine oli gets warm)
[MEDIA=youtube]d3x5cdW85N0[/MEDIA]

Then ofcourse the heater fan resistor went bonkers and lo and behold that had been fixed before haha!


Then it was time for MOT or Besiktning(Inspection) as we call it in Sweden, with a wheel alignement afterwards



Some time after that I had the brilliant idea of flushing the coolant system so what better way to warm it up than just take it for a short drive!
OCF I got pulled over that same day however after explaining what I was doing and why the police officer thought that my licenseplat was about to fall of (that was why they pulled me over) they let me go back to the garage and happy days.


Some days later was tha last time I saw him, I parted ways with him he now lives up further north in Sweden.


Not to worry though I still have some ACE's up my sleeve, in the meantime I have not only been cutting down a REALLY rusty shell for parts and engine and all the good stuff, I basically took everything except the shell. You should have seen the underside... compleatly gone...



And I also bought a Red PH1





This car have some backstory that almost needs it own thread but it was my best friends car who passed away and couldent let the car go so I keep this as a reminder of him(that was why the blue one had to go).




Not 100% without failure however haha, some weeks after I got it the little rascal ate one of the screws for the butterfly valve :-O luckily still good compression with warm engine after the disaster! PHEW



Okey so where does this all lead to, well the red car is going to stay as is, BUT I have another black one that you might have seen I previous images in tha background! This bastad


Well so what is going to happen to this one, well first this is going to be a FUN car, like the one you dont really have to care that much about and just do a little bit what you want to it, end goal trackday's and the blue ITB engine with the speeduino as ECU.

So this is not really in order of operation how I did stuff but bare with me here it goes!

Subframe, crapped out, take that out.



Subframe and other parts from the scrapped black shell straight in the washer at work (holy hell that gigantic dishwasher is nice)



Sandblast and painted the small parts



Pressed in new bearings in the hubs, repaired and seem welded the subframe then sent it away for paint.






In the meantime I worked on reinforcing my wishbones and added some powerflexbushings I had laying around, yeah I know I should have the black ones but hey I had these since before so.







I recieved a new aluminium bushing for the subframe made some new gasket for the heaterbox and painted the engine bay+booster.




Subframe hubs and swaybar back from paint! I even got some extra flake in the paint free of charge





Okey so a common upgrade a while back was the 406 brake calipers that I got, they had to be refurbished! They have not been painted nor assebled as of yet.






Since its a bit much flex in the steering column and im gonna swap for a maunal steering rack for now I needed some plates yes I know I still need to practice on my welds!



And since I had to fix a diffrent steeringknuckle I didnt have the correct boot so what do you do... you raid you buddy's partsbin! This is from a MK1 Golf



Later on I got some HEEEFTY engine mounts because the one that was in the car was crap and these was not much more than was it vibratec(?) cant remember, and this also converts the engine from hanging to standing as they had in the GR.A cars, if these are not going to vibrate the fillings out of your teeth I dont know what!


Since they where designed for having the PAS-pump bracket in place I hade to make some spacers and I managed to find a generator tentioner+bracket from a Volvo was it 440 or 460 to make it fit





In with the engine! on the new mounts! I had to drill one hole for the front left mount in the subframe however, I also added a LARGE thick washer under it so it would impact that much of the regidity.






I also got some more toys a while back, a bucket seat and some LEDA Coilovers that I sent back to LEDA for a rebuild and some new solid top mounts!



Refurbed and back in Sweden! I love how they provided me with before and after comparison dyno charts of the the dampners

Before

After


And Installed!




The last thing I have done is that I started mounting the bucket seat, so I had to come up with some kind of sollution, in hindsight it would just have been better to buy a new seat with side mounts instead of having this older style, but hey my welds are getting better!







I finally tried to mount the refurbed shocks in the rear, however the previous owner had rammed a coarse threaded bolt through the right rear lower attachment so i tried to fix the threads with a M12 1,25 tap hopefully that will hold, worst case i have to install a helicoil in its place.


I also had to get some new bolts for it since well... coarse thread an such, was not easy to find a new one so had to buy a longer one cut it and made new threads to it, the shorter one i found with no big drama.


However the left rear was not without its hurdles, the dustboot had a hole in it, so i ordered two new boots and a helicoil kit (just in case), do you think the boots actually fit? Nah haha, so when i removed the old boot I found out that they had used a universal cutable steering rack boot, one quick trip to the local partsstore and badabing badaboom!




However the new boot seals so gosch darn well that it almost ballons and contract it self to the shock when compressed/retracts, I am a bit worried of condensations buildup inside the boot that would not be able to "breathe out" shall i just leave it or make a small hole in the boot? :-O

Finished builder the undercarrige for the second seat so now both is in place! Note the awesome hackjob for seat slider releast lever! Next up is trying to get the seatbelts working an attached.





So i took a quick trip to the garage, and mounted the seat belts the rear went in without a hitch


However the front since i totally forgot that the buckles are mounted to the seat it self i have no space to mount it on my seat frame, i was thinking getting a square washer with a welded nut to it like them that they have in rally/racing cars and mounting it to the tunnel, like under or over these holes here?


However the original buckles are bolted from the sides and not thru the bottom, do you guys know some kind of L-bracket that might work and is strong enough?


Bought some new toys a PMS-Shifter because i really like the rattles xD
I have not adjusted it yet an i need a centering spring.





I also made a new brakeline for the front left since that had been cut.




and the BIG news! The flippin engine started! I have no clue why the Tacho jumps up to 6k RMP when cranking, I have to look in to that. Had to replace the terminal for the exciter wire since the first time around the starter wouldent even push out the piniongear.
https://youtu.be/02BA7QyJiG8

After the startup i did som wires, bought a BMW battery junktion box from a friend, i hope the Clio wont push the BMW part away or something haha, looks kinda neat tho!






I routed the batt + cable through the left side grommet and zip-tied it up, should be good enough! Need to make a new battery hold down in th rear however. That is for another day.

Ran some new enginebay fuelhoses and kinda neated it all up :p



Finally managed to refurb and paint the calipers, unfortunetly the caliperpaint i choose where a PAIN to work with, some kind of 2-part spraycan paint, absolutely atrocious clogged the nozzle constantly but hey they have some colour now.


I also added some new undercoat to the wheelwells and mounted the calipers, however i need to fix some 3mm washers/spacers to space the caliper out, the washers I have now is 2,6-2,8mm and they are not quite as centered over the disc as I want. I also got some new M12 1,25 40mm bolts to acomodate the meatier caliper + washer.


However i really need spacers to clear the calipers unfortunetly, so i orderd some 15mm hubcentric ones,but the rims looks really nice with the meaty Toyo R888


I also added the shaggy old radiator and reconnected the fuelpump so its controlled by the ECU again and not a permanent switch.


Lastly i installed some wheelstuds thats about it, yeah....wheelstuds.... because racecar?


Some fitting issues with my Lenso rims, the ET where way of so needed to run spacers to clear the caliper, 15mm hubcentric spacers where fitted to clear, but effin hell its stills tight but it clears :p


I also fell for the pressure and bought a new Nissen rad. haha its quite the difference :p



I also filled and bleed the brakes, i have had these RBF 600 on the shelf for a couple of years (never opened) finally they got to be used!


I also refitted the stock steeringwheel since MOT in Sweden does not like Snap Off wheels


I took him down on the ground just to visualise how he sits, he needs to be a bit higher in the front so it clears the arches, it's a bit tight now haha, but hey he does look good in my opinion!


Up on jackstands again tried to somewhat attach the brakehoses, jerryrigging it is



And I ran the car until the thermostat opened, but no coolingfan kicked in... effin hell so i started ruffeling through the electricalsystem... that was a "disaster" it had been cut and spliced and reconnected in a whay that the fan would only kick in when the thermoswitch on the thermostathousing triggerd, and if im correct that also drives the Warninglight in the dash... in the meantime while trying to figure ot all this a ripped out som unused cables and repaired i think atleast 7 wires that the insulation was chewed thru on... all of the cables that have Wagos on it where damaged (I attached the wagos just to test the circuits they have now been replaced with solder and glue filled heatshrink)





I also tested the rad fan switch in some boiling water with good sucsess i have no picture of this unfortunetly but it triggerd around 85-90c and released around 70 so im happy with that, also look at the colour difference between ONE run to thermostatic opening and fresh coolant O.O i really need to flush this system a couple of times.


Ran the battery cable back to the trunk and mounted teh battery, it's not at perfect placement but hey it can allways be moved later.


I somehow did not have any brackets for the is it called cowl-cover? We are callig it the aquarium or tub in Sweden hehe, so the 3D-printer to the rescue! Only printed in PLA so it might deform with heat (I did not have any other filament so meh, it will work for a while)


AND FINALLY! I took him on his FIRST drive in MAAANY years its vibrating everywhere, the alignement is non excisting and reverse is a bit of a bi*ch to get into gear, but HEY he drives!
https://youtu.be/eHVSynCg_i8

[boris.h]

Hi from France!
I sent you a PM, but congratulations for your project! Clio are amazing cars to drive and F7P/R engines very reliable!

Did you manage to set a good trigger angle with 60-2 renault flywheel? I am looking for these informations, I think the trigger angle is wrongly set on mine...
thank you so much!

[linkus]

So... well... i last left you guys with the car atleast running by its own power, just trying to pass MOT. But first before MOT we need some tidying up and some more adjustments of the gearlever, that took some fiddeling and adjustments but now i can say that the PMS shift is a flippin godsend, holy crap that just transform the whole driving experience!

Here you have som pictures of the poor thing just days before MOT, note the red (Hazzard triangle?) yeah thats just before MOT and note the scrape marks on the garage floor, yeah he's quite low and the exhaust dings it a bit







However the MOT did not work to my 100% favour, i NEEDED rear seats, rear seatbelts and tilting front seats... this was a totall bummer since i have MOT'd all kinds of diffrent cars with the exact same setup as i ran with my clio and no issues at all... well atleast i had 1 month to find some seats and a roadtrip to Gotland for two trackdays just the day after MOT!


Luckily the trackday was a HUGE sucsess, the car ran atleast 1000km + two trackdays just days after MOT, no over heating no damages nothing but a slightly warped front brake rotor and a loose brake caliper (yes that could have been a disaster but hey im still here!)





Before the ferry ride over to Gotland we stoped by a good friend of mine who happend to have a XR25 so i asked if we could try to read som faultcodes of the car and as i suspected my O2 sensor was bad, nothing to du but drive anyway!







And as a HAPPY frekking surprise, my FIRST blue clio that you saw in the beginning was also there, i had no idea that he was coming aswell with it, it was really fun to see my old car again!



Here is one and tha only picture of my car on the track unfortunetly but hey its better than nothing!



Well finally home i parked the sucker next to my red one and yeapp hes lower!



I also some week later managed to get a hold of a complete set of PH1 seats now i also have some spares (if anyone wants to buy my right hand side seats please send me a message i dont want to throw them away, they are in really good condition since thats the passangerside in Sweden)





I also bought new front Hella/Pagid rotors that has ventholes from the inside of the hub, perfect for when im gonna install brake ducts. Nice to not have the whole care shake it's self to bits when im brakeing



I also when i bought the PH1 seats bought a diffrent bucketseat which is narrower since the previous i had was to wide for me, i though it would be OK but when i actually was out on the track i could just as well have used the stock seats.



Later in the summer i was on a i think you guys call i superstage(?)/autocross? with some friends of mine, managed to well... push my car a bit to much with cold tires after that my car got a new nickname Tondeuse (lawnmover) in french




And i also got a Garmin GLO 2 GPS so i could try some timing with Harrys Laptimer and GOPRO this was my fastest time for that day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK2GCDdVmlA


Now the car has just been sitting and ocationally been driving and getting warmed up, next up is to take out the engine again and start with fitting the blue ITB engine and the Speeduino ECU

[gavin_eakins]

G'Dday Linkus,

I love your enthusiasm !
The shots of all the wheels + other crap in the car on the way to the track gave me a smile. How amateur racing / tracktime should be.
Thanks for the report.

Cheers - Gavin

[linkus]

Well... before the speeduino an ITB conversion i might have bought some more toys.... to install during the winter

[linkus]

I have also tinkered some with a electric waterpump for the blue engine, its a CWA400 (Pierburg from a BMW) and i was thinking that it should be controlled by a arduino with a temperature probe. The pump takes 12v and a 12v PWM signal, so i had to go in the EEVBLOG forum to get some help on boosting the PWM-signal from the arduino, but now atleast i can controll the speed of the pump via a twist-pot! Great success! I used the non-inverting circuit below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xKmLxhtiYA

[dazq]

Awesome work on the pump , would you be interested in sharing the code you used?

[linkus]

Awesome work on the pump , would you be interested in sharing the code you used?

OFC, its some real hightech code! hahaha

Code: Select all

#include <Arduino.h>
/*12V PWM circuit.
Serial monitor readings.
created by the SriTu Tech team.
Read the code below and use it for any of your creation
*/
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600);//enable serial monitor
pinMode(3, OUTPUT);//define pin
}
void loop() {
int pwm = analogRead(A0);//read analog value and put in to the variable
pwm = map(pwm, 0, 1023, 212, 36);// 0-1023 to 0-255
Serial.println(pwm);//print serial monitor
analogWrite(3,pwm);//PWM
}

This code runs the PWM between 13-85% if im not misstaken, since regarding a document i found from tecomotive the pump has these modes

Input frequency:
50 Hz -1000 Hz
Input level:
• Power supply → Ub = 8 to 16V
• PWM high → Min 0.6 Ub / Max Ub + 3V
• PWM low → Min GND - 3V / Max 0.4 Ub

Note:
To ensure the pump awakes correctly an uninterrupted high pulse of 3ms must be applied.
(For example: 50% duty at 150 Hz)

Duty Cycle:
• 0 – 1% → Stop
• 1 – 7% → Emergency running (about 95% speed)
• 8 – 12% → Stop / Error Reset
• 13 – 85% → Controlled operation from min to max speed
• 86 – 97% → Maximum speed
• 98 – 100% → Emergency running (about 95% speed)

I dont really know yet how to do the highpulse to start the pump correctly yet, that is something i need to fix

[PSIG]

Note:
To ensure the pump awakes correctly an uninterrupted high pulse of 3ms must be applied.
(For example: 50% duty at 150 Hz)

I dont really know yet how to do the highpulse to start the pump correctly yet, that is something i need to fix

Something like this?

Code: Select all

/*12V PWM circuit.
  Serial monitor readings.
  created by the SriTu Tech team.
  Read the code below and use it for any of your creation
  MODIFIED FOR 3ms WAKEUP PULSE, ERRORS & DEFAULTS
*/

#include <Arduino.h>

void setup() {

  Serial.begin(9600);  // enable serial monitor
  pinMode(A0, INPUT); // define sensor pin mode
  pinMode(3, OUTPUT);  // define PWM pin mode
  analogWrite(3, 255); // output 100% (high) on pin 3 for wakeup
  delay(3);  // for 3 ms.  We usually avoid delays, but nothing else is running yet
  analogWrite(3, 36); // set minimum run speed after wakeup until updated to hold wakeup
  Serial.println("Wakeup pulse complete");  // report wakeup to serial one time
}

void loop() {
  int pwm = analogRead(A0);  // read analog value and put in to the variable
  if (pwm < 1 || pwm > 1022) { // error sensor disconnect or short - use 100k pullup on A0 input
    analogWrite(3, 255); // default high (max pump speed) if bad signal + new wakeup
    Serial.println("SENSOR ERROR");  // report sensor error detection to serial
  }
  pwm = map(pwm, 1, 1022, 212, 36);  // 1-1022 to 212-36, within normal PWM op range
  pwm = constrain(pwm, 36, 212);  // hard-limits mapped values to avoid needing new wakeup
  Serial.println(pwm);  // print PWM value to serial monitor
  analogWrite(3, pwm); // variable PWM output on pin 3
}

It sounds like any 3mws pulse at full voltage is a wakeup, so 100% for 3ms should do at any PWM frequency. I didn't try the code on the bench, but it may give you some added ideas for the simple test routine or standalone control.