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Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By toddTR6
#23365
So, this is the start of my build. I am continuing from my thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1416 I will be updating here every once in a while as I progress on this project.

I am going to be converting my TR6 to TBI, I may use the existing carbs ( 2 * Zenith Stromberg 175) or I might get get a couple of TBI from the 1.4 L Chevy motor found in the Aveo and the like. I need to make a trip to the auto recycler to take a look see to find out how much work it will be to adapt them to the Triumph intake manifold, but this won't be for a while given the lousy weather we are currently having here. In the meantime I can do some indoor work and start with the build of the board.

I have pretty much all of the components for a V3 board, the board and some sensors. I have started adding the components onto the board.
Image
Image

I decided to get new sensors for the reason that the ones pulled from the cars at the recycler may be questionable, and given how cheap they can be had new, I don't think it's worth the time and effort to get used ones. Also for that reason I'm thinking to build a wiring harness as well.

So a couple of questions:

For the GM sensors, is the "weather pack" connectors the correct type to get?

For a coolant temp sensor I got a honda unit, bottom right in the photo, what would the correct connector for it look like?

For a wiring harness, what would an appropriate gauge of wire be for the sensors?
Also what gauge of wire would I use for the output to the fuel injectors and the Ignition Coils (I will be using GM smart coils)?

Cheers, and I hope that you all are having a good holiday season!
Last edited by toddTR6 on Fri Mar 09, 2018 2:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By apollard
#23367
The Gm sensors use different connectors - some are weatherpack, some metripack, etc. I just searched on ebay and matched the connector shown with my sensor (ie, search GM IAT connector). Same for the Honda sensor.

OEMs use 20-22 ga wire for sensors. You can use the same for the ignition, the current there is small (especially with GM smart coils). For injectors, I use 18 ga. I've used 16 ga before because it was handy, but it isn't necessary.
By toddTR6
#23371
apollard wrote:
Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:22 am
The Gm sensors use different connectors - some are weatherpack, some metripack, etc. I just searched on ebay and matched the connector shown with my sensor (ie, search GM IAT connector). Same for the Honda sensor.

OEMs use 20-22 ga wire for sensors. You can use the same for the ignition, the current there is small (especially with GM smart coils). For injectors, I use 18 ga. I've used 16 ga before because it was handy, but it isn't necessary.
Hi Apollard,

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction...

I googled up metri-pack and found some nice info, basically since the 90's GM has been using metri-pack. Here is a nice article on it: http://knowhow.napaonline.com/know-how- ... terminals/. With the exception of the coolant temp, all the sensors I have are GM and from 2000 or later.

Now to look up the Honda connector...
By peter242
#23431
FYI Rockauto has a lot of pigtail connectors available, however you would have to work backwards a bit.. You'd have to index the part number with a vehicle, and then see if there is an "electrical connector" for the part related to the vehicle. HTH
By toddTR6
#23442
I did some hunting around and looked at the connectors at Mouser, Amazon, Rock Auto, but I decided to get them from various vendors on Aliexpress. The reason being, from the other vendors I’d be paying much more per connector, at mouser for example the pins were 75 cents each. I was able to get 3 or more connectors for the same price at aliexpress. I just have to wait for the slow boat from China to show up. Having more than 1 of each type gives me room for error and a spare as well.

Hopefully I picked the right ones. When they show up I’ll post links to them, as it’s difficult to figure out which the right ones are.
By Classictinker
#23924
toddTR6 wrote:
Sun Dec 31, 2017 2:35 am
So, this is the start of my build. I am continuing from my thread: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1416 I will be updating here every once in a while as I progress on this project.

I am going to be converting my TR6 to TBI, I may use the existing carbs ( 2 * Zenith Stromberg 175) or I might get get a couple of TBI from the 1.4 L Chevy motor found in the Aveo and the like. I need to make a trip to the auto recycler to take a look see to find out how much work it will be to adapt them to the Triumph intake manifold, but this won't be for a while given the lousy weather we are currently having here. In the meantime I can do some indoor work and start with the build of the board.
Have you considerred using something like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-509- ... SwBOlaWKeu?
By toddTR6
#24818
A bit on my progress...

Well, I've had a couple of setbacks. First one is that I broke a main bearing cap when replacing the bearings on the crank:
Image

I have found a replacement cap, but I need to take the block in for a line bore. Originally I hadn't planned on tearing down the engine as it was in good shape when I started restoring the car. I am going to take the opportunity to replace all the bearings, since they are cheap and easy to do while the engine is disassembled.

While I was disassembling the block I found that the cam shaft was also in bad shape:
Image

and
Image

I am going to look into getting the cam reground. I'm going to use this particular set back as an opportunity to get a bit hotter cam, but nothing too wild. There is a place local to me that specializes in import cam regrinding and has TR6's listed as well as a lot of obscure vehicles (1903 Columbia for example). I'm hoping that they have a few cam profiles for me to choose from.

On the forward progress side I have mostly completed the build of the speeduino, and tested it using ardustim. I have also added bluetooth to it. However after adding the bluetooth, the serial IO stopped working. The it's still works, I can connect via bluetooth, just not by USB. I did look at updating the firmware on the ATMega 16U2 chip, but I was unable to get that to work. I have ordered a new MEGA, since they are cheap, and in the mean time I can keep playing the the old one to see if I can get it to work.

I also just received all the connectors, but the the 6 pin one that I need for the LS2 coil pack is too small so I'm going to visit an auto recycler to pick one up. Should not be too hard as this coil pack was used on a lot of 6 cyl GM vehicles from the late 90's to 2012 or so.
User avatar
By PSIG
#24820
toddTR6 wrote:
Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:37 pm
Well, I've had a couple of setbacks. First one is that I broke a main bearing cap when replacing the bearings on the crank:
...
I have found a replacement cap, but I need to take the block in for a line bore. Originally I hadn't planned on tearing down the engine as it was in good shape when I started restoring the car. I am going to take the opportunity to replace all the bearings, since they are cheap and easy to do while the engine is disassembled.

While I was disassembling the block I found that the cam shaft was also in bad shape:
...
Gah. Well, better to find it now than later with twice the damage and expense!
toddTR6 wrote:
Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:37 pm
I am going to look into getting the cam reground. I'm going to use this particular set back as an opportunity to get a bit hotter cam, but nothing too wild. There is a place local to me that specializes in import cam regrinding and has TR6's listed as well as a lot of obscure vehicles (1903 Columbia for example). I'm hoping that they have a few cam profiles for me to choose from.
Regrinders usually have a large set of lobe profiles they can apply to most cams. You may want to do some quick research with other TR6 owners for a suitable replacement that you can compare to whatever the regrinder suggests; just to see if it's in the same ballpark as what you're expecting. SD-EFI can handle any cam profile with tuning, so don't let that slow you down like it does some other EFI systems such as OEM MAF. You don't need a special EFI grind.
toddTR6 wrote:
Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:37 pm
On the forward progress side I have mostly completed the build of the speeduino, and tested it using ardustim. I have also added bluetooth to it. However after adding the bluetooth, the serial IO stopped working.
That is normal. Like having two people talking to you in each ear, you don't want two serials talking to Speeduino on the same line at the same time. So, either use Bluetooth, or unplug that and use USB cable, but not both.
toddTR6 wrote:
Sat Mar 10, 2018 2:37 pm
I also just received all the connectors, but the the 6 pin one that I need for the LS2 coil pack is too small ...
:?: Single LS2 coil with six pins?

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