[DannyP]

I haven't installed the ECU yet. I've built it and tested the inputs. I still need to build a loom, which will happen over the winter.

I've also decided to do spark first, then add fuel after I have reliable spark. To me, it's the smart way to do it, making only one change at a time.

I have decided to use CB Performance temp senders. They seem to be skinnier than every other sensor I've seen, using 1/8" MPT. They are $40 each, so a little higher-priced. They are both 2-wire sensors which are recommended vs. one-wire.

The IAT will go into the air filter baseplate on one side. I'm using CB dual 48mm ITBs. The CHT sensor will screw into the type3 EFI spot, which is threaded 10 x 1.0 mm. 1/8" pipe thread is close enough to screw in and doesn't need to seal, it's a closed hole.

[PSIG]

Those should work fine for sensors. I've used the Bosch CHT 10mm sensors (image and calibration curve below), and there are many examples of 1/8" NPT temperature sensors, such as the TP77. Standard GM calibration in Speeduino. I get the connectors at the wrecking yard next-to free, but they also have those new if needed. Same sensor for CLT or IAT in this case. Many other choices and options.

David

BOSCH CHT Sensor 0280130012.jpg (66.2 KiB) Viewed 5330 times

BOSCH CHT Ohms - 0280130012.jpg (125.67 KiB) Viewed 5330 times

[flat4power]

I've also decided to do spark first, then add fuel after I have reliable spark. To me, it's the smart way to do it, making only one change at a time.

same for me. I start with ignition only

Those should work fine for sensors. I've used the Bosch CHT 10mm sensors (image and calibration curve below), and there are many examples of 1/8" NPT temperature sensors, such as the TP77. Standard GM calibration in Speeduino. I get the connectors at the wrecking yard next-to free, but they also have those new if needed. Same sensor for CLT or IAT in this case. Many other choices and options.
David
BOSCH CHT Sensor 0280130012.jpg
BOSCH CHT Ohms - 0280130012.jpg

thanks for your return. I go check these sensors

[DannyP]

Hello Guys,
It's been a while since I posted here. I've installed and wired everything to get to the spark only configuration. Can't get it to fire, yet.

I started with fuel pump off, plugs out, coil disconnected. Mind you, the VR sensor and crank wheel were already running for years on Megajolt. The ECU powers up, I see TS fine, and yes I have the correct board in engine constants(UA4C). Initial tune loaded, 4 cylinder, wasted spark is selected. Megajolt is spec. at 90 degrees BTDC, so I have it set at 270 ATDC which is the same thing, right?

SO before doing anything else, I turned the logger on and got a nice, clean VR signal. The tach on TS was reading ~200 rpm, as was my tach in the car. SO I plugged in the coil and wires and new resistor plugs. Grabbed my inductive timing light, and turned it over. No spark on any of the 4 plug wires. OK, so pull the plug on the coil and check 5v outputs with a mini-scope. Yup, I see them go up and down from 0 to 5v.

Then I realized I had the spark set to going high instead of going low. I burned out my Bosch/Huco wasted spark coil. It got hot and ruptured the secondary. OK, so I go get another coil. I set the outputs to going low, and nothing, no spark.

So I disconnect the coil plug, and hook up my scope again. I do a hardware test. I can see the coil driver switching high and low on #1. On #2 it does a half-dozen pulses then goes flatline. How hard is it to swap, maybe Weaver can answer. At this point, I'll change both number 1 and number 2. If I can't solder those SMT drivers, I guess it's new board time.

SO close, yet so far.

[DannyP]

Here is the setup. You can see which driver is toasted in the hardware test.

[LAV1000]

The values for Cycle and Pw they are in seconds.
What are you measuring and where ?
Please post your settings (.msq)

[DannyP]

I am measuring the output from Speeduino through my harness to coil 1 and 2, using the hardware test on Tunerstudio. It outputs a 50% duty cycle at .5 Hz and 1 second PW, going high and low. Coil 1 is fine, coil 2 works for abut 3 cycles, then flatlines. I think I need to replace the ignition driver 8SOIC chip for coil 1 and 2. I don't need 3 and 4 so I could just swap them.

[DannyP]

Here is my file.

[PSIG]

With Bosch coil drivers, you will fry your ignition ICs with incorrect dwell. Also, replace your IGN output resistors with either 10-ohm (to use any driver type), or 82-ohm (if only ever using older Bosch drivers) 1/2W. The original 160-ohm resistors can cause poor triggering with those types, but be aware that using lower resistance for reliable firing also increases the likelihood of burning your ICs if you're not careful.

I didn't view your tune, but with that tooth log image, verify you are using Falling Edge, and re-set your TA if you change edge.

Before going through the work of re-soldering, for a test you can re-pin your connections and reassign the ignition outputs to channels 3 and 4, or reset your tune config to use 3 & 4. If any of that doesn't make perfect sense to you, re-solder as you planned.

[DannyP]

Thanks for the reply.

I had the spark output set on going high, and have since learned that the Bosch coil driver works on going low. I'm using the wasted spark Bosch/Huco style from a 1998-2000 VW Golf or Beetle. Does that qualify as an "older type"? I have no problem changing resistors out if needed.

My dwell settings right now are 4.5ms for cranking, 3.0ms running, spark duration 1.0ms, and max dwell 8.0ms. Overdwell protection is ON.

Are these settings OK?

I also emailed Weaver at WTMtronics(UA4C board) and pulled my case cover . He stated that the output transistors are tied to the LEDs so if the LEDs are on output is good. I verified the output LEDs can be turned on through the hardware test(NO COIL attached of course!). Output IGBT drivers should be OK then, but I'll check more tomorrow.