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Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
By wt29
#1622
Greetings all,

I'm the sad owner of a 2007 Pug JF 125. The Australian distributor went bust in the GFC (2009) so there is zero dealer support out there and the local parts guys are either non existant or useless.

The ECU is dead and replacement is > $AU350 and you then need the "unobtainium" diagnostic computer to init it if you do manage to find one. The ECU starts the bike and idles but won't throttle up. It revs to about 5K but I think that is just the idle mixture leaning out - there is zero power - and just dies back to idle. The TPS is working as I can obtain a clear 0.7v to 4.4v back probing the connector. So....... I'm now going to blame the TPS circuit in the ECU and go for a Speeduino v3. It is impossible to repair the ECU as it is encapsulated in Dow Corning rubber silicone that sticks like the proverbial. Any mechanical attempt to remove it will just remove bits from the board.

Anyone with any experience in 125cc single cylinder - I'd be very grateful for any tips. The JF125 (and a whole lot of others) runs the Synerject 4-Stroke version of the original Orbital Engine Company (another Oz company) designed ECU. It already has the TPS, Air Temp, Engine Temp and 14-1 missing tooth CPS so it should be reasonably straight forward. My biggest concern is the idle valve but I'd have to assume that this is opened and closed to try and maintain 1500 RPM.

I'm blogging my progress at http://bluegumsoftware.com/blog if anyone is interested.

Cheers

Tony
By noisymime
#1623
Hey Tony... That's a fantastic sounding project, though sorry to hear the reason why it's needed in the first place :cry:

First off, you should've seen my face after reading through your blog post and realising that the diagnostic tool interface is ACTUALLY a Gameboy!

Around the TPS, it's possible that the stock ECU is only using this for things like acceleration enrichment and has some other method of determining engine load. This would explain the behaviour you're seeing with no change when the TPS is unplugged.

A quick google around shows a LOT of people with similar symptoms as yourself. Not that I want to try and talk you out of it, but how confident are you it is the ECU?
User avatar
By ConnerMcLaughlin
#1624
You and your project are exactly why I'm taking on the speeduino phenomena. I've been where you're at so many times it's unreal. It's that damn blackbox that every motor company seems to have that keeps vehicle owners from knowing how their machine works.

After all that said, speeduino might not be for you. So far it has been very experimental. I want to say it's pre-Alpha/Alpha stage. I read your blog and it seems you want to do this to your daily driver. For most people this would not be a weekend project. For the time you spend on setting up an ECU $350 might seem cheap.

To save yourself some frustration, completely rule everything out besides the ecu. From what I read, there are a few other things you can check to make absolute sure. First off, your problem is intermittent and you got the good kind of intermittent that stays bad or good for long periods. Meaning where ever the fault is it hasn't burned out/messed up completely. A few of the things I could name off are: restriction in the fuel system, restriction in the induction system(intake/exhaust), broken wires/bad connections, shorted wires/connections(especially to ground), bad grounds(usually from corrosion or loose fastener)

If all this doesn't deter you, then yes build a speeduino. From what I've read you have the skill to take this on. Don't stop until you get it. Come back and tell us about it and post some pics tambien.
By wt29
#1643
Thanks for the replies guys!

Re the Speeduino - I am a bit concerned with dumb stuff like the header pins on the mega vibrating around during riding but at least I have a remote chance of fixing it.

I've checked the fuel pressure - bought an $80 EBay kit that shows the pressure rock solid during the fault. I've replaced the regulator and battery. The scoot also is fitted with a new (ebay) voltmeter and the whole charging circuit is good for around 13.9V when running. Luckily I have an accurate wiring diagram for the bike.

I suspect the ECU as the TPS signal is good right up to the ECU connector and disconnecting it outright changes nothing. I agree that other items may be offsetting it but as I have no access to the ECU circuit etc I can't diagnose. It simply won't throttle up and the TPS is the only source for that information.

As I mentioned on my blog, the diagnostic card is "unobtainium" so the Speeduino with TunerStudio, full schematics and a bunch of interested forum guys is probably still a better bet (IMHO). Bottom line - I'm reasonably confident its the ECU. Current state is that the intermittent is now permanent!

I've also started "attacking" the ECU but that is a dead end as the potting compound is effectively non-removable and any mechanical method (cut and scrape) will almost certainly cut a track or chip off a component.

Problems with a 2nd hand Pug ECU, apart from outrageous cost, include - Does it have some other problems and it needs to be paired to the immobiliser so I still need the diag cart to install it. The immobiliser on the Speeduino version will just be a kill switch somewhere on the scoot.

I have plenty of time. I'm going to get a cheap scooter (a SYM) that I can offload later. I also like the Pug for its style and the way it rides.

On top of this this, I have a super sympathetic wife who understands my need to fix stuff. I can also get some cool new gear, for example my 35 yo Weller iron needs replacing, and the whole thing looks like great fun.

If the Speeduino works, and I have no reason to suspect that it doesn't then a version that incorporates the Atmel on the board without the headers would be well received. I might also be able to help other Pug riders who are faced with the same choices. At worst case I can go MicroSquirt but I'm hoping it won't get anywhere near that.
By RichCreations
#1648
I am a bit concerned with dumb stuff like the header pins on the mega vibrating around during riding but at least I have a remote chance of fixing it.
I am in the process of replacing the stock ECU on my BMW motorcycle, and had the same fear, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun to "glue the mega to the speeduino board, then i got my board, and with all those pins, it take some serious effort to separate them, and there are a couple holes that could be used to bolt them together.
By noisymime
#1649
Yep, the holes on the v0.4 board should align with those on the Arduino. Its designed so you can put a bolt through them both to hold them together.
User avatar
By ConnerMcLaughlin
#1654
Don't wear short shorts!

Your biggest concern should be all the electrical shorts your speeduino board is gonna wanna make. When you put that bolt in make sure it doesn't rub down into a trace. Maybe use plastic washers. Building a case for your boards is going to be important especially if you have a lot of vibrations. That putty gooe that's in your oem ecu is there for a reason. Arduinos and their shields aren't meant for the weather. From morning dew to heavy rain, moisture is constantly seeking to destroy your electronics. One time I had a pcb that was in a case that was in a wooden box, in the backroom of a concrete building and it still burned up from water damage. The rain water traveled down the cables by capillary attraction to my pcb.
By RichCreations
#1655
Your biggest concern should be all the electrical shorts your speeduino board is gonna wanna make. When you put that bolt in make sure it doesn't rub down into a trace. Maybe use plastic washers.
or use a nylon bolt
User avatar
By cx500tc
#1659
RichCreations wrote:
Your biggest concern should be all the electrical shorts your speeduino board is gonna wanna make. When you put that bolt in make sure it doesn't rub down into a trace. Maybe use plastic washers.
or use a nylon bolt
must be size M3 (3mm diameter)

Or maybe (the image is a hyperlink so click the pic):
Image
By wt29
#1717
Josh - having trouble sourcing the 160 Ohm 2W resistors on the ignition section. Mouser/RS/E14 all no go - unless I want to buy 5000!

Do you have any other sources or should I just join 2x 330 ohm 1W at the hip for 165 ohm on the board. 320 ohm are really hard to find too!

I've bought a couple of 5W wirewounds but they would be hanging about 10mm above the board which wouldn't be real great vibration wise.

Getting the parts together is hard work - especially trying to dodge the delivery costs.

Tried to PM you but the board won't let me :?

Tony
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