Any questions you have before you begin buying, building and installing.
By alessandromeyer
#34237
PSIG wrote: Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:58 am
alessandromeyer wrote: Mon Apr 29, 2019 9:04 pm EDIT: by the way the ecu, lambda probe tps and the cranksensor share a common ground post. And speeduino feeds TPS and the cranksensor with 5v. Is there anything i should be concerned about?
5V and 12V sensor and signal grounds for Speeduino to read ("sensor return") should all go to one GND terminal or wire on Speeduino. Power grounds (e.g., O2 heater, all of the other Speeduino GND wires, etc) should all go to one engine ground point (star ground). For example, this means your Speeduino power and remaining grounds should be at one location, and your WBO2 controller power ground should be at the same location. A VR- is an exception (VR is alternating voltage and current, not DC), and should be to the designated VR- terminal that feeds the VR signal conditioner directly.


David
Thanks David, thats is luckily (unfortunately?!) exactly the setup that I have. My wires were extracted from a Mitsubishi eclipse loom, I think they should be fine.
By alessandromeyer
#38976
So half a year later, unfortunately no progress this far.

On the one hand due to a newborn family member, on the other I have pretty much run out of ideas. But being the first Project that shouldn't be something to worry about. :D

Due to suggestion from slack I will

- reposition the sensor, to hang it a little lower so that the angle is more 90° ish

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IMVGQu ... sp=sharing


- PSIG suggested to go for rising trigger instead of falling. I tried that the results were exactly the same unfortunately.

- I also tried to record my oscilloscope in a more consistent manner but I struggle to finde a mode that shows the signal in a meaningful way so that somebody can make sense of it, but I guess that didn't work out. Could anybody give me a hint how I could tune my DSO213 to yield some results?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q95SGELbZWg and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f2WbJ0v1ZQ
By alessandromeyer
#51855
So it's been a while. Time for an Update.

Meanwhile I changed my Cherry/ZF Hall Sensor to another one. And all of a sudden all my problems were gone. I was finally able to get the car to run more consistently. And eventually run it like i had run with the mech dizzie before. Well until my ABS-PC printed bracket collapsed a tiny bit and threw the time off some degrees :mrgreen: But that's not solved with a steel bracket.
Along that bracket i have now installed a high-pressure fuel pump and bosch ev14 injectors in a ITB setup.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CRWN0ajl256/

The car generally runs and jumps around in the garage but seems not ready for real driving outside. According to my wideband (SLC2) I'm running very rich (shows lowest possible value 0.68) and as I pull down the VE cells the cars starts to ramp up its RPMs and eventually dies. So clearly my readings are off for some reason. Whenever I accelerate I can see the probe actually reading leaner, which totally puzzles me. At first I opened the plates idle position a bit thinking that they were too closed in their position but this just sped up the engine.

So I'm really open for any idea!

(short clip of the WB controller https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxIcn_k ... andromeyer)

Meanwhile i ordered a tinywb to rule out the slc being broken.
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By jonbill
#51867
The only obvious (to me) problem in the tune is the Y axis values - with Alpha-N in my experience you really need to have lots of resolution at the bottom (and not so much at the top). Your first row is 16% TPS - what is your TPS at idle? not 16 I bet :)
on mine, the Y axis values are 0,2,4,6,8,10,12,16,24,32,40,48,56,64,80,100. If I could have 1 and 3 I would. I often have the case where mixture is good at 0 and 2 and 4, but 1 or 3 are lean or rich.

Also I'd make the axes the same for all the tables, that makes it easier to know where you are.

This could be your problem, but I'd also be suspicious of your 02 sensor - so as well as getting another wb controller, definitely get another sensor too!
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By Chris Wolfson
#51869
Hi,
do you have a fuel pressure regulator with return line? If yes, what pressure are you running at the injectors?
Which injectors do you use? What diameter do your throttle bodies have?
Should be no problem to run an Alfa 2.0 engine on injection.

Cheers, Chris
User avatar
By Chris Wolfson
#51873
That is an important point while tuning idle, you can not adjust it while the ECU tries to reach the lambda target. So you have to shut it off("Tuning-AFR/O2-algorithm-no correction" or set "Controller Auth +/- " to zero) to find a basic injection time. You still need the lambda measurement to adjust!
By alessandromeyer
#51881
Hey guys

Thanks a lot.

Starting at 16% TPS was totally stupid I see that now :cry: . I adopted your steps @jonbill. Do you use these for spark as well? If so could I have a look? Obviously our engines are way different with mine being hemi thus requiring a lot of advance, but it'd still be very interesting how you use such short steps.

I unfortunately already bought the parts for a deadhead setup, when I read your opinion on the return-line thread @Chris Wolfson. I told myself I will start with that setup and swap it eventually for a more common return line with the regulator after the injectors. Having said that, the fixed regulator and pump are rated for 4 bars, but I haven't attached any gauge yet to measure the more effective pressure close to the injectors.
The Throttle Body size is 40, as the stock manifold is built for 40 DCOEs. I know they cannot be compared one-to-one since there are no venturies.
Injectors are some Bosch EV14 (237 g/347 cm³) A bit bigger than I would have wished, but I mixed up g and cm³ :cry: .

Oh silly me not deactivating EGO control. I honestly wasn't thinking about that and only thought about autotune. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much EGO actually interferes assuming my case where i'm running overly rich?

Again, Thanks a lot guys, very much appreciated.
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