Any questions you have before you begin buying, building and installing.
By dazq
#15331
I usually source my connectors cut from a loom ,which can be a very cheap thing to do eg i got 15 connectors on my ford loom for my build all for just 15gbp!
Else you can buy them new, the Bosch ones are te/amp mini timer connectors usually(try google image to confirm they are your type, the bosch products are pretty much always these.)
I have purchased several off ebay there was a uk company "brands hatch Motorsport" i believe they were called, selling sensor and ecu connections.
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By PSIG
#15340
One simple way to find parts and connectors is to take everything you need from a similar engine type. If you have a 4-cylinder engine, find an EFI wreck with a popular 4-cylinder, and take all the sensors, connectors, coils, etc. from it. Sometimes it is simpler to pull the wire harness with the ECU (use the empty box and connector for Speeduino), and all the sensors, injectors, etc. on the harness. Older cheap EFI cars are usually simpler with the stuff you need, and inexpensive too.

Don't worry about the Hall sensors with steel or magnetic wheels, as the magnetic wheels are much too expensive to make, so very few are that type. The Hall sensor should have a magnet in it if it senses plain steel wheels. Whenever you pull parts or connectors from cars and trucks, note the make, year, and model so you can find the wiring diagrams for it later. That makes it simpler to connect things together, as you can find which pin is V+, or signal, or whatever.

David
By 74gtv
#15907
Hey alessandromeyer,

I'm looking forward to your updates on this. I'm restoring a US-spec 74 GTV and am seriously considering a speeduino-based EFI conversion. Thanks for starting the conversation!

-Thomas
#32956
So iI just realised it's been two years since i started asking, well introducing my project. In the recent month after a long overhaul of the cars underside and lots of welding and brazing experience I'm back and have been bothering the people on slack quite a bit. Thanks a lot for all your patience already!

So my goal is currently to get the ignition to run with a 106b coilpack and gain some experience on the road. And then change over to ITBs and injector after that.

State of things:
Installed a teeth'd pulley I took from a newer engine (TwinSpark) which is a 60-2. To get started I designed and printed a mount in ABS to mount a Cherry GS1 Sensor. After some fiddling and repositioning I have a perfect signal without any Filtering.

My carbs are Solexes ADDHE 40 which are a very tedious to mount some TPS on. With webers there are tons of adapter kits that allow mounting to the two holes on the side. The solex do only have one hole which makes mounting something very tricky. I again printed an adapter which bolts to the hole and then printed another adapter that lets me "bolt" the tps end to the throttle shaft (or rather the nut that secures it). Whenever I pressed my foot on the gas it threw off the adapter. After lots of thinking about proper solutions i ended up with ziptie-ing the adapter plate and voilà its working fine. :-)

Disclaimer: I will eventually replace both adapter plates with something "metal".

Next steps:
Due to the pulley change I unfortunately lost my original markings for the timing and thus i have to figure out TDC. For that i need a dial with a long enough "stick" (no idea what these are called) to check for TDC. I only have a dial with a short shaft, so i need to figure another adapter out..

As the car was purely mechanical before, I need to weld in a plate to mount the coil pack. Lastly I need to wire the coil pack and probably assemble some Leads myself or find some that fit..

Will post pictures soonish. :)

Thanks Alessandro
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By PSIG
#32962
Excellent! If you can't find a dial indicator extension easily, buy a long (100mm?) bolt with the same threads as your spark plugs, or purchase a "piston stop" for $5-7.
  • Remove the spark plugs (easier to turn) and place a long stick or drinking straw into the #1 cylinder plug hole to contact the piston.
  • Rotate the engine until the stick appears at its highest point.
  • Insert the bolt until it just contacts the piston top.
  • Rotate the crank backwards only enough to screw the bolt in an additional 1/2 turn or less.
  • Rock the crank back a bit and then forward again until the piston gently but solidly contacts the bolt.
  • Mark your crank at your timing indicator.
  • Rotate the engine backwards (other direction) and gently contact the bolt again from the other direction.
  • Mark the crank again.
The engines actual top center is exactly between those two marks you made. Make a permanent mark there as 0°. Hope that helps.

David
By alessandromeyer
#33796
After fixing some of the previous mentioned problems like changing the the crank sensor holder for a homebuilt mild steel version, fixing the wiring and converting fully to the UA4C board, I finally pushed myself through took the 360° Wheel and measured.

Up front i plugged the coil pack and noticed that when I power (12v via turning the key halfway, without cranking) my board that the spark plugs ignite already. Looking at TS I noticed random Sync signals and cranking (very low rpms like 100ish). As soon as I start the engine using the old dizzie i seem to have a stable signal, without any filtering. I noticed some

Plugging in the coilpack, and ... the car actually ran, for a bit. I have heavy backfiring which sounds like my measurement were wrong and I ignite too early.
https://youtu.be/b9aIAYVgiyE

I'd love some feedback on my measurements: The Missing tooth is actually very close to the tooth under the sensor, about 35° before (at TDC). Is my measurement correct or should it be 325°?

This is it at TDC Image - sensor on the left and in the lower mid the end of the missing tooth.
By alessandromeyer
#33885
@theonewithin well for that I would have needed a car that ran at all. And even if it ran I don't have any marking since i needed to install another pulley and don't have the tools currently to measure my first piston at exactly TDC.

I got it working ultimately - i knew i wasn't far off, so i played around and ultimately 10° degrees more made a running car. Besides that i figured out why i got a bad signal when turning the ignition on - the starter motor was too close to the the cables and being an old-style big-starter it was affecting the signal.

So I'm very happy that I got it working! Even though i only needed to get two sensor correct, it has been a long road just because I have no one around that has ever done something like this and because of the amount of adapters I had to prepare.

I'm very grateful for the help of this community! Thanks a ton! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQg7wuaGuuQ

So next I need to verify whether my new AT is now good enough and then improve my spark table.

The Next big step is preparation for Injection.

I will be trying to build a returnless system using an attiny and a MOSFET + a Bosch sensor Fuelpressure Sensor and a Honda GSX-R pump.

Since I will be replacing my currently original with the last Iteration of the engine that was available (Twin Spark Engine from the Alfa 75) I need to figure out what I shall be doing about the ITBs. This because the old manifold is prepared for Carbs (weber dcoe side drafts) whereas the newer Engine has had a single throttle body with a huge plenum, which I don't plan to reuse. As mentioned in the first post I have some GSXR 600 Throttles bodies lying around but those don't really mount to the weber mounts and it is my absolute intention to first get the old engine running nicely before I swap in the new with the knowledge gained. :mrgreen:

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