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For discussion of Speeduino compatible boards designed / built by other members of the forum and for guidance around making such a board
By Jansun
#18974
I changed the FTDI tool like i did on the MS2, now its functioning properly. Finely got a ride with the ecu!

Start on tuning right now. Have some difficulties on higher Rpm's, don't make any power, looks like its running in some sort of rpm limiter. I was thinking about the dwell and spark duration.

I use a bosch module, shouldnt the signal be a 50% dutycycle? How should i configure the dwell and spark duration for this module?
By Jansun
#22348
End is still to come.. This project has some issues on which I don't have enough knowledge and time to solve it.. yet. Got some other projects first. I'm determined to solve this puzzle, but it has no priority.

- Conventional milling machine to CNC
- Racebike connectingrod failuture
- Finishing the EFI system on my Capri with MS2
- The wife (Hmm.. goodbye schedule)

So see you guys in spring. Or next year, who knows..
By Jansun
#32579
Hi all,

I'm back again. Long time no see, but things are back on the road again. Literally, the board is finally running! jahoo :D In the past time I spend a lot of time on projects I mentioned above and also learned a lot. There was a timegab now because the PCB's for the CNC are not delivered yet and took the PCB back off the shelf. Within a few days i was able to solve all trouble and now its finally running!

I isolated the ign output completely and also found out the 5v output for the analog sensors is not protected for esd, shorts etc. I found the right timing and coil settings with my scope. I measured huge voltage spikes on the car i didnt had on the desk (with coil), both positive and negative. therefore i isolated the board off the rest of the car and it runs great. After a short drive and some changes on the spark table etc i took a 1.5 drive and back. I am pleased on how much better the engine runs now then with the ignition i had before on my Capri!

So now i have to think about what is the right thing to do with changes i made and the PCB design. So finally some succes, but not done yet!
By Jansun
#32726
Currently im working on the ign output. I now its tricky, but i would like to put on the IGBT on the board. I have one concern left, the heat dissipation trough the board.

I drive for a few days around now with my daily car with the IRGB14c40L To220 package, without heatsink. When i touch it its hot. I would like to use the Dpak version, I was wondering how this acts is on a hot summer day on the board with 4 drivers on it with heat dissipation only trough the board/wires. Is there some experience with this?
User avatar
By PSIG
#32731
You can calculate the dissipation from the datasheet info. You can even compare to the heat you have from the non-heat-sink TO-220 version in order to verify the calculations are reasonable. My first concern is that IGBT is designed for COP coils, which typically flow half the current of other coil types. Is it up to the task for whatever coils you or others might use?

David
By Jansun
#32741
PSIG wrote:
Mon Mar 11, 2019 9:48 pm
You can calculate the dissipation from the datasheet info. You can even compare to the heat you have from the non-heat-sink TO-220 version in order to verify the calculations are reasonable. My first concern is that IGBT is designed for COP coils, which typically flow half the current of other coil types. Is it up to the task for whatever coils you or others might use?

David
This car wasted spark 6cyl, but i also would like to make it to works for an ordinary distributor. Do you mean the TO-220 package or the IRGS14c40l itself? I think you refer to the dpak right, because the irgs can handle more current then for instance a bip373.
User avatar
By PSIG
#32746
Jansun wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2019 6:28 am
This car wasted spark 6cyl, but i also would like to make it to works for an ordinary distributor. Do you mean the TO-220 package or the IRGS14c40l itself?
The device, and also how it functions in that package.
Jansun wrote:
Tue Mar 12, 2019 6:28 am
I think you refer to the dpak right, because the irgs can handle more current then for instance a bip373.
Can it really? It's your design, so I'll leave those judgments up to you. I have not calculated that device's performance under real-world conditions it might face. I can't know without calculating, and I was just curious what you found when you calculated it. However and IMO only; it would not be advised to use an advertised max rating measured in specific set of controlled lab testing conditions to rate or compare a device for use in real-world conditions. Most ratings may be for a single pulse of a few microseconds, or without switching heat considerations, or without heat added by flyback clamping, or at high temperatures after operating a while, etc.

Hey, it might be great and it's working for you now :D, but I was just curious. For a different example where calculations from datasheet info could warn you; it surprises a lot of people when they use a 75A clamped MOSFET to drive a 3A solenoid with PWM, and it gets almost smoking hot. ;) Again, a different situation, but an example of how weird it can get real-world and the bold-print advertised ratings become relatively useless or even misleading. Do your thing. I was just curious as I followed your project.
8-)
David
By Jansun
#32749
Haha thanks. For what i was doing here it just the numbers, no calculations. I was talking about the maximum allowed continues current of the collector, 16A bip vs 20A for the irgs.

I'm not that hell of an electronic engineer, maybe i could use some help here ;) Are there some drivers known which are better or prefered?
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