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User avatar
By cx500tc
#10854
Old Grey wrote:Now that one is fancy enough to go into production.
Thank you. ;)
I'm going to cater for the home DIY toner transfer crowd and try to put the UNO upside down on the top if I can - soldering will be easier -.
I understand completely the DIY thing.

As for the inverted UNO, you might consider adding a reset button since the Uno's will be obscured, or remove the board underneath it so one can press it. Being inverted, it should be at the lower left corner, no? I guess that would depend on the final orientation.


Regarding the board I posted, I checked dirty pcbs and they have a blanket cost for 10 boards, 10 x 10 cm, for $25-28 USD, so that's less than $3 per board.

Pot's compatible with the ones I used are $5.59 USD shipped within the US for 16 on eBay, so about $0.35 each. The biggest differences are these have a shorter shaft, and have a center detent. There's a listing for 1,800 of these for $70 USD too.

I'm not sure about the screw terminals yet, but probably a less than few dollars each ignoring shipping.

LED's, resistors, switch and pin headers should be less than $10 USD all together if sourced from eBay or similar.

If someone made a batch of boards, it looks to be about $30 USD for everything less shipping and the Arduino.

If there's sufficient interest, I might have a go at this.

Or if anyone has suggestions for changes let me know too.
By Old Grey
#10861
I had thought about reset, but I was going to drill a hole in the board so you could poke it with a stick. :shock: Your fan-dangled fancy reset switch is much better. :D

The problem with those pots is that it's $13 to get them over here.
I like vertical shaft pots because you can see the knobs and LEDs at the same time, but I might have to go horiz because I'm having trouble with 100 x 100. Then again home DIY doesn't have a price/size PCB problem.
User avatar
By cx500tc
#10862
Old Grey wrote:I had thought about reset, but I was going to drill a hole in the board so you could poke it with a stick. :shock: Your fan-dangled fancy reset switch is much better. :D

The problem with those pots is that it's $13 to get them over here.
I like vertical shaft pots because you can see the knobs and LEDs at the same time, but I might have to go horiz because I'm having trouble with 100 x 100. Then again home DIY doesn't have a price/size PCB problem.
Comparable pots: here, 10 for £16.29 including shipping.

*edit- just realized you're in Aus.
Try this link. 16 for AU $1.33 + $6.16 postage.
That's the same vendor I linked in my post above in the US.
User avatar
By PSIG
#10904
Old Grey wrote:That sounds like an idea but there are a few problems with those eBay oscillator boards.

With the smaller 555 one I built the circuit, and it seams to put out a triangle wave. You will also have to remove the trimpot because it's hard to adjust and get a 1M for the board.
The other comes in 555 or 358 and has 2 trims. Duty can stay, and will have to be adjusted blind, but freq has to be removed. ...
-
I have one of the cheap 555 modules I bought years ago that I dug out to check it's output again (scoped below). I also have an ancient JimStim V2 that is also 555 driven. In both cases the output is a clean square wave, although the DC on the PRC one I have is only 66% and up (no problem), and freq is very limited in the range (big problem). So, I posted images if it helps, but if it's not your own circuit or based on a JimStim or something component-controllable, I'd stay away from the PRC modules to avoid user frustration.

David

Scoped PRC eBay module:
Image

The module I tested:
Image Image Image Image
User avatar
By cx500tc
#10907
PSIG wrote:
Old Grey wrote:That sounds like an idea but there are a few problems with those eBay oscillator boards.

With the smaller 555 one I built the circuit, and it seams to put out a triangle wave. You will also have to remove the trimpot because it's hard to adjust and get a 1M for the board.
The other comes in 555 or 358 and has 2 trims. Duty can stay, and will have to be adjusted blind, but freq has to be removed. ...
-
I have one of the cheap 555 modules I bought years ago that I dug out to check it's output again (scoped below). I also have an ancient JimStim V2 that is also 555 driven. In both cases the output is a clean square wave, although the DC on the PRC one I have is only 66% and up (no problem), and freq is very limited in the range (big problem). So, I posted images if it helps, but if it's not your own circuit or based on a JimStim or something component-controllable, I'd stay away from the PRC modules to avoid user frustration.

David

Scoped PRC eBay module:
Image

The module I tested:
Image Image Image Image
Is that 555 thing something really should be on a simulator board?
If so, for what purpose?

Not trying to be obtuse or anything, but really want to know what that would provide for.
By Old Grey
#10909
"Well there's your problem!" Half of my blue breadboard wires are open circuit, hence why I had troubles. It also doesn't help that my DSO138 kits is skechy and my multi only has a 20K frequency range setting.

I made the smaller one and it now works, and yes it has limited frequency and it needs that 1M pot.
Image

The larger one, like what you posted, I just can't get working. Will have a further play latter.
Image

There is also a LM358 one.
Image
cx500tc wrote:Is that 555 thing something really should be on a simulator board?
If so, for what purpose?
The Arduino is better, but this is simpler, and might be of use to someone. Tracks will be on board if you want pop them, and since there is a lot of dead area on the board might as well use it.

Currently just looking for something better than the other oscillating sim board.
Last edited by Old Grey on Mon Jul 25, 2016 10:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.
User avatar
By cx500tc
#10910
Old Grey wrote:...
cx500tc wrote:Is that 555 thing something really should be on a simulator board?
If so, for what purpose?
The Arduino is better, but this is simpler, and might be of use to someone. Tracks will be on board if you want pop them, and since there is a lot of dead area on the board might as well use it.

Currently just looking for something better than the other oscillating sim board.
Yeah, dead space is just that. I just wasn't sure that someone wasn't generating a 36 tooth pattern with one 555, and gating the output with another 555 to make it a 36-1... or something to that effect.

Car makers toss in a passenger side seat, and sometimes rear seats too, even if they'll never be used and are wasted space.... ;)
By Old Grey
#11085
Well here's the preliminary.

I went with the square wave oscillator and reg from the other SIM with my mods because it seams to work ok. I'll do some further testing when the other stuff arrives.

Image
User avatar
By cx500tc
#11104
Maybe I see one or two issues:

Looking at the IAT and CLT potentiometers, and lets just call the terminals 1-2-3 from left to right, on the IAT pot, you have 1 and 2 tied together but on the CLT pot you have 2 and 3 tied together. This basically means one will show increasing resistance as the knob is turned from left to right and the other will show decreasing resistance. Maybe that's what you intended but that is counter intuitive, I'd think. Again, I'd think that both should be installed and wired / routed so that the low temperature is full anti-clockwise and rotating clockwise indicates an increase in temperature.

I'd be wary of calling out "-12V" since it's not that- it's "0V", a.k.a. ground or GND. Technically, if you are calling out +12V and -12V you have a 24V system centered on 0V.
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