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By noisymime
#13269
If there's enough of a demand and I can be confident about the exact signal, I'm happy to write a decoder for it if that would help. It doesn't sound too complicated and it beats modifying hardware over and over.
By choyr
#22031
Can you share your connections, jumpers and trigger setup?
I did mine like this:
G- to IDC 23 (ground)
G1 to IDC 26 (VR2-)
NE to IDC 27 (VR1-)

JP2 to VR JP3 to VR JP4 OFF JP5 OFF

VR conditioner board installed. I can only see rpm starting from 600, and when it starts to see rpm, i can lower the rpm up to 200 and it can see it. Attached is the log, but this is using a hand drill just to simulate. Still not tried in the car itself.

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By ktop
#22045
hello choyr,

you are a step ahead of me. I didn't find time yet to bench test my distributor.
Which distributor you have there ? From which model is it ? what model is the distributor ?

Did you try to connect G2 to ground also ? It was a suggestion some time ago.
Why you use 12 teeth ? did you break any teeth from the main 24 teeth ?
By choyr
#22048
hi ktop, its from a 4AGE 20v blacktop. It's the same with the 3SGE, only the the location of the 24 and 2 teeths are interchanged. I used 12 because its at the cam, not on the crank as suggested by others. Whenever I see other tooth logs, and when I compare mine, its so far, but it works.
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By ktop
#22089
choyr wrote:
Fri Nov 03, 2017 5:25 pm
hi ktop, its from a 4AGE 20v blacktop. It's the same with the 3SGE, only the the location of the 24 and 2 teeths are interchanged. I used 12 because its at the cam, not on the crank as suggested by others. Whenever I see other tooth logs, and when I compare mine, its so far, but it works.
Hi choyr
Nice engine the 4AGE 20v I will have one again sometime.
Mine it looks the same and it's from 4efte, probably it's the same indeed.
As per setting from the Megasquirt, I think you add 24 teeth and that it's cam and it's calculating the crank one.
Basically 12 teeth is in the crank and 24 in the cam.
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but that is my assumption so far.
By stum
#22104
Hi, Im running a toyota 3vz-fe (3L V6) it has a simular dizzy set up. running 24 on the bottom, and 1 tooth with 2 pickups on the top. I use a the setup you have shown in TS. 12 crank teath, 1 cam tooth. and hooked up using G2 not G1 (if my memory is good. I read it some where on here). And the jumpers look about right (and coil output to 5v. I started at 12v and did not kill it. i was only testing and then got it to start Oh Yea). Im not at home so cannot check. and trigger angle at 0', which gave me a perfact 10' running at idle (timing set at fixed 10') . I also dropped my skip revolutions down to 1, as 3 seemed like a lot of cranking for no reason, and startes much quicker. I have the geared starter, so cranks up nice and fast.

Run's fine for me. I did not bench test, and took the leep of faith. and it worked (which was a big supprise)

Biggest issues I have had was around the dwell settings for the coil. I think im at about 3-4ms dwell and 0.8ms (sh) spark. and it will rev easly to red line. You get them wrong and it wont rev, or is a pig. Its been a week or so since I last played. been waiting for a 02 sensor.

Good luck.
By choyr
#22112
thanks stum. i'll try to connect it when I have access to the car. Good for you it started without bench testing the board. do you have any ignition logger I can check if we have the same or not?
By stum
#22124
Hi Choyr, so no logs. If i get a chance tonight I will take a picture of inside the dizzy, and the wheels/pickup. that way you should be able to see how close they are. Car not going at the moment. but I need to get back on to it.

So when I had it hooked up and cranked, the sync lights for the sensors where flashing in TS. So I thought, this looks good. so hooked up the injector wires and the ign wire, and it tryed to start, then away it went. not too well, but started.

The first issue if found was in the ign set up I still had it set for individual coils, not a single. so once I changed this. it was much better, it started and ran on the base maps as supplyed. so the lurnings I have are:
- on a dizzy set up make sure it is set for a single coil (makes sence but easly over looked in the excitment)
- get you dwell and spart times sorted, some strange stuff happens if not
- the jumper for the ignitor voltage. set to 5v. I did run mine on 12v gor a short bit, and no dammage.
- and for you the cam sync off G1 or G2 wil have an effect of sequencial injection/ign if you get that far, as they are 1 engine cycle apart. but with the dizzy you should not notice any/much difference.
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By ktop
#22142
hey guys,

a heads up on this. I had issues with MSII after the 2500 rpms for some reason. it was getting de-synced and I managed to burn the ignition module.
So be careful and try it out before.
By stum
#22162
Hy Choyr, I went down to take photos of the VR wheels and pickups on the 3vz-fe last night. but the wheels are positioned differently in the V6 dizzy. the 24 wheel is on the top, and the other at the bottom. I took a few photos, but due to the angle you can not see much of the cam sence wheel. It is a different shape to the one in your photo, but has one high tooth, and then some funky shape around the rest

download/file.php?mode=view&id=2552

Hope this helps.
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3vzfe_dizzy.jpg
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