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By Daggi
I am struggling with my 3sgte trigger settings, reading thru this thread i am confused by the secondary trigger tooth. I can`t set this to 1. The field is gray when i select duel wheel. I have tried 12 tooth and 24 tooth on primary base. It ignite but it wary gruggy. It started with primary base tooth 15 for and runned fine for some time and stopt. Running 201902B firmware.

Sorry for my bad english, hope it make sense
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Daggi, this is often confusing because there are several versions of distributor wheels and sensors. Let's ignore that it's a Toyota for a moment, and tell us everything about your triggering:
  • How many wheels, where they are (crank or cam speed).
  • How many teeth each wheel has.
  • How many missing teeth (if any).
  • How many sensor pickups each wheel has.
  • What type of sensors they each are (VR, Hall Opto, etc).
I can guess most of the answers, but we should get all the info out there.

By Daggi
Hi, Thanks for the reply.
It is a 24 tooth engine speed with 1 vr sensor. And 1 tooth with 2 vr sensors.
Running on the cam.
2605692A-A8AD-401E-8E2D-45041D58F3B1.jpeg (76.09 KiB) Viewed 3962 times
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Daggi wrote:
Sun Mar 17, 2019 7:23 pm
Hi, Thanks for the reply.
It is a 24 tooth engine speed with 1 vr sensor. And 1 tooth with 2 vr sensors.
Running on the cam.
OK, so your 24/2 is different from others in this thread, though still common. In your situation, you have two general options; the simplest (in function) being to only use the 24T wheel and grind one tooth off, making it a 24-1 wheel at cam speed. Using Missing Tooth (Cam) decoder, this supports all of the modes from batch fuel/waste-spark to full sequential fuel and spark. The /2 sensors would be grounded.

The other option is to remove or otherwise disable one of the two TDC pickups (G1 or G2) for the 1-tooth wheel. Common methods are grounding one of the two sensor signal wires to G1 or engine ground, grounding through a large resistor, or I've seen one case of destroying one of the two sensors by grinding it down. Disabling one of the pickups would result in a single pulse per-cycle, and would run as a Dual Wheel 12/1 (12T wheel none missing per crank rev and 1 cycle pulse, per-cycle) at crankshaft speed. Usually this method is tried first even though signal interference can sometimes be a problem, as the first method (24-1 cam) is always a second option.

There are other modes it could be run in, but they are limiting or do not offer any advantages, e.g., 12-1 or 12-1/1.

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By garcia w
Hi buddy i have the same distrubitor setup
1993 toyota starlet rhd
It has 24 tooth wheel with 1 vr sensor
And a weird half moon wheel behind for Cam with 2 sensor placed apart from each other.

What i did was i broke out the pin on the distrubitor socket for Cam G2 senor.
(Note: i have 2 distrubitor as spares just incase)
Left me with. Ne & G1 sensor.
So 3 sensors are there but am only using 2

Ne & G1

On the software side in tunerstudio

Trigger Setup
Settings i use :

Trigger pattern: Dual Wheel
Primary base teeth: 12
Primary trigger speed: Cam

(Trigger speed = mine was greyed out lastest firmware)

Trigger Angle (Deg) : -15
(Trigger angle = best to use i timing to find this #)

Skip Revolution(cycle): 2

Trigger edge: Rising
Secondary trigger edge: Falling

Trigger filter: meduim
Re-sync every cycle: yes

Picture of the distrubitor i have that. One i use for testing.

I can snap i pic of the setup ltr just reinstalling windows atm.
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By choyr
You can also grind 1 tooth from the 24 teeth to make it 24-1 on cam. This way, you will only use 1 sensor, the NE. Cons for this is the cranking time is longer because its looking for that 1 tooth missing, not like the default which has g1 and g2 sensors for triggering. This is my setup now but better what garcia did i think
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Good collection of info @ktop. :)
choyr wrote:
Mon Mar 18, 2019 3:32 am
Cons for this is the cranking time is longer because its looking for that 1 tooth missing, not like the default which has g1 and g2 sensors for triggering.
Either method (24-1 cam or 12/1 crank) will require the same cranking rotation to find the cycle signal (gap or pulse) of up to 720°. The only ways to shorten sync would be to run a batch-mode decoder such as 12-1 crank speed, that would find sync in under 360°; or 4T distributor mode requiring no sync. Again it could not do full-sequential fuel or spark, but would find sync quicker on-average, and would be useful for batch/waste setups that do not need to know where cylinder #1 is — including 'double-shot' sequential on a paired-injector 12-1 setup.

By ByteVenom
My car had a 24+4, so I had a few possible decoders I could make with various grinding techniques. I chose to go with 24-1.

My "G-" was shared between the two sensors, resulting in interference that almost looked useful. It was easier just to remove the 4 tooth wheel sensor.

I'm all for PnP and reversibility, but I did not see how it would be possible to run the car reliably without modifying the distributor.
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