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#57337
Hi again!!
So with one link more on my reg chain it was 50/50 work and cost to in one last try or abandon the hole speeduino setup.
my sparkplugg hole didden`t hold it it anymore, so hadd a anothrt top here.

Now it starts and ideling, it began ok at 1020rpm and slowly incrised to 1350rpm and then slowly increas and increas til i deside to pull the propp!

So I set a new log...

i don`t now what to lock for in fuel spark table other tabels... no clue, than to make it match 14.7air/fuel i have 10.2 on wideband gauge!! but as mention newbe on TS and afraid to do things worse for now, and had in mind to the pay pros to do the finetuning.

But when i disconnect the ICV it drops to normal rpm 800 850 again!!

T-Castle.
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#57340
No AFR on log so connect it/calibrate.

Also RPM is rising but iac value is dropping. So you probably need to just change idle valve direction in TS. Or it could just need tuning of other maps. Try adjusting idle valve duty to see how it affects idle rpm.
#57341
pazi88 wrote:
Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:29 am
No AFR on log so connect it/calibrate.
Hi Pazi88

Yes try change direction on icv.
But connect or calibrate AFR!
That`s when tihngs start go south, RM say the ecu get all the signals it need, so have to be connectig then!
But again, can`t find the right probe, but i would go that on the screen, since i have the bosch 4.9!!

T-Castle
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#57345
T-Castle wrote:
Wed Jun 08, 2022 1:02 pm
pazi88 wrote:
Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:29 am
No AFR on log so connect it/calibrate.
Hi Pazi88

Yes try change direction on icv.
But connect or calibrate AFR!
That`s when tihngs start go south, RM say the ecu get all the signals it need, so have to be connectig then!
But again, can`t find the right probe, but i would go that on the screen, since i have the bosch 4.9!!

T-Castle

Nop, becase I can`t put in parameter in volt boxes so..
It is this green wire i should have connected to the O2 Ecu?

T-Castle
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#57348
pazi88 wrote:
Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:29 am
No AFR on log so connect it/calibrate.

Also RPM is rising but iac value is dropping. So you probably need to just change idle valve direction in TS. Or it could just need tuning of other maps. Try adjusting idle valve duty to see how it affects idle rpm.
I don`t now what to think of this anymore!!!!!! TS says spot on, the wideband gauge is 10.2 whose right! :shock:
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#57351
So i had it wright down, but the speeduino site have loged me out a few times Now, and waila, all gone :?
So short version...
Jeeh, it's to many tables all over,
But one in idle, one in turn off again, and it drops to 13.5!

But connect the Wideband! connect the green wire on last post ?
I'm ponbably so far out in the wood i Could chang my adress to woodpecker road, 100.000 :lol:
But every part inside the green feld on tables is is ok playground, not kill pistonrings in go to lean outside on red! (Example)?
The cluster inside is one i build from wolkswagen 2001 1.9tdi, i had one back in days, and it had a good light "softy"layout for the eyes when dark outside.
The cluster have to be fully open when driving to marke the discs at tight speed GPS tracker, thats why they are turned clockwise to show right speed and rpm, it vas a por cluster i played around with.
But it's 4 times more difficult bypassing immobilizer circut and match up dioder for lights, than setting the trigger wheel and rewire the hole engine hardnes around the cupe blower to get the big plastick hardness bridge hang in the way throwed away.
Splittng out the fuel and ignition rails with 10pint connector, same for all the rest on engine block with 16pin connector, So its only pam pam pam out with the engine in with a "new"/different setup, engine.
Thats was when I'm thinking, have i missed one or 2 wire of the 47 when it run so rich I'm affrad for the WB probe and Lamda, it have used about 13L fuel on 6-7 up to 90° in idle :shock:
But RM lock at the log "the ecu gets what it need to run, maybe the 13L is not relavant! But then i can make ti run better with ketchup bottle with fuel under gasspedal and drive on the wideband right, but you say it's missing AFR, i don't question that, becase of por support from RMracing :? The M50TU have the same Basic parameters as M52?
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#57362
T-Castle wrote:
Wed Jun 08, 2022 11:22 pm
… But every part inside the green feld on tables is is ok playground, not kill pistonrings in go to lean outside on red! (Example)?
A bit of a side-track to address this part; the table colors are random rainbow to highlight general change, and do not signify anything specific. Next, piston rings are most commonly damaged by over-rich (oil-washdown) than lean. Lean is not an issue in-itself, unless ignition timing is not coordinated with it, and the same goes for over-rich. Ignition timing must always be appropriate at any AFR for both efficiency (power, emissions or economy) and engine safety.

[EDIT] For clarity in performance tuning, rich and lean are relative to the peak-efficiency target of torque or economy AFR, not stoichiometric. If your peak-torque AFR is 13:1, then if it's "a little rich" might be 12.6 or "a little lean" might be 13.4. Stoich is only used as a rich/lean reference for laboratory use or emissions tuning. This makes communication much simpler and more effective, as the tuner knows to push the AFR back towards the peak-torque AFR, rather than some unknown value rich of stoich. ;) [_]

Note the highest combustion exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) are in the stoichiometric area (Lambda 1 or 14.7:1 AFR on gasoline), and EGT is lower on either side of stoich. That's right - leaner than stoich is cooler, when timing is correct. So if you want to avoid extra heat, then avoid stoich, tuning only for peak torque or peak economy, as-appropriate.

That's hard to do if you are tuning for emissions instead of power or economy, with stoich AFR targets for using catalytic converters that require stoich to operate well. Stoich is neither powerful nor economic, and it's only domain is emissions. Where tuners have issues is when the lean condition is inadvertently affecting other separate issues, such as detonation of low-grade fuel or timing mismanagement. Those issues are related, but only as separate problems to being lean and should be solved separately, rather than avoiding lean opportunities.

Conversely, we only want lean when we are not requiring maximum power, of course. :roll: The general rule-of-thumb is to maintain max-torque fueling (typically Lambda 0.8 to 0.9 range) above ±70% NA load, and full lean below that (variable but typically Lambda 1.1 to 1.2) for efficiency and economy. This applies well for street applications, but today is also regarded as mandatory for racing applications. Your project goals may have different or special requirements. This has nothing to do with extra fuel to alter burning speed to avoid detonation, or other schemes, but may be limited by them. I hope that helps.
#57393
Jeah jeeh PSIG not so fast!
I think this is a mounth forward in my learning process :D
ok, it just seemed like reasonable to make cold blue, red hot.
But good explained and will come in handy as an reminder guide in probably more minor issues later ;)

So my VE table looks to be ok ich... at least out of danger sone at 42-50 5-10% opp/down not muck difference, but as you are in on, chenge abit to come out of stoic heat, my spark table is 13 maaaby a bit low, 15-16 idle!

But it has that wobbling with small pows (late fuel ignition sounds) in idle, and a bit hard stagnant when giving is throttle,
and there is the throttle that makes the clap sound i have wonder about when push the throttle "fast" to open it`s more to die in a air gasp first then rews up ??

A new event is there are now 7 light that blinks on the ecu :o i can`t remember seen that before!

The AFR sensor is optional to use or not, i have kept all to be able to drive the engine on stock ecu in emergency and idle compare, but is the speeduino help the tuner by using the O2 calculating and correct small differences i would have great help form it in the learning prosess!!?

And another issue, i cant find right temperature sensors, every one are 3 pin, or custom load them, i have 2 pin (is my hardware matching the speeduino) i have selected the Bosch FST7576 for air, E30 325i for water 1pin that are closest, the M50 have the blue 2 pin water temp to so!!
But i`m not sure if the speeduino uses them at all, as the boxes are empty every time i go in to change to find any differences in better or worse, when they are so far away form they on the engine!

So Back to main issue, trigger wheel:
In TDC, i mark it just to see it better, then a mark the wheel and one on the sump,
then in say 25 angel it`s off by some centimeters or i just leve it as is
Then in the manual it`s say make the markings line up, with that done it`s back to TDC then , why bother marking any thing then, it just can`t be right, only if the TDC is the igniton mark too, as at 9deg it`s spot on the TDC mark!

If it was, "in TDC, put a mark on wheel too, then make it match up tight under the sensor" as it is in 9deg fixed and 18 in trigger angel, it would at least make some sense!!
There are probably some issue why they did not to make the Speeduino send ignition signal form right under the sensor!!
But again why not, i get the counting clicks from ecu when turning the engine manually with ignition on!!
T-Castle
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