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#57220
The ? May comning so in advanse
The rare weld on one chain link more with for exrtra 1.7mm topgasket and 1.2mm laser ut stainlesstel shims from K64.PL driftingteam between the gaskets chain got to short!
So out with the chain rail cut of the top so it fits almost under the cam wheel, So out with the spring inside the chain tensioner piston that push on the chain rail.
Cut of 1cm for later, cut and put a reinforsed fuel hose equal to the cuted of spring, this was å put on tighten measure take of many times to get it Just right, mening it ending in same force as original tightened, but there is no rom for more adusting.
Then drill a hole on the same spot that matches the hole in the side on the aluminium piston so oil can go throutgh the hole in the front of piston and lubricate the chain going in the rail.
So now the rail only have 5mm play, with the spring in it can go 2.5cm, but with original chain its to short to go so far back, it will never jump a tooth.. rail or not, with the spring and longer chain that happen the first time with backfire, with reinforsed fuel hose an the 1cm spring in end, it's orevent that from happen again, when som pitoins are on the way down some on way up they wotk toward eath other so its rarly go backwards, BUT, when turn it with the wrench clockwise is something else, the reason for that is the cut down chain rail the smal link on the chain hooking up in the rail push it backwards to it glips when it's so close to the cam wheel now, runing the right way its noe problem, but get a false like rocker arm sound when the chain jonts passes the top on the Now "sharper edge" top of rail, So when all forse going the same way with the wrench and å lot force to turn it can press the fuel hose inside the tensioner toghter Just enough so the chain drops down under the tooth on the crankshaft and you hears the (time to retiming the register chain smack when the rail smaks back in plass after it now 1tooth of , :o
So that is the solution I hade tom make on the chain problem, but i have newer heard of that the chain is to short Just with exrtra top gasket. Should have maschine rhe pistons down but another budget and time frime

T-Castle

For the curious one, or bretter then bad TV! Snap is there the crazynes is going on.
Tom-Castle
#57221
The trigger wheel thing
Put to TDC white arrow and I mark red arrow, same on on the sump, set timing light on the red arrow mark mhm.
Now i had it in 36° BASE for the M50TU/M52, and the light is 3.5cm on the right side of red arrow mark, going lower in TS to they match, just as the RM manual say, but in 9° it lines up it's back to TDC, So what the point, it allready on TDC" when setting the second mark red arrow:?
I'm know to be extrem careful and accurate build the N/A engine i look at it as art :P
(This projekt is one of a kind with spesial big Torsen lock diff with machined 2.56 ring gear and pinion to match up, 6speed trans from e46 320d calculated setup to 330km't with 330hp at 6500rpm) if it match up time will tell :lol: and thinking would be a cool to turbo set this mean machine. But this trigger, i don't get it.. if the have given Me wrong software ecu i can stand here for years, or TDC is syl one, then it fires on Syl.2 tought, but 6cm before top in My mind is to early to fire the sparkplugg!
As compare the stock light is 2cm to the left for CPS, Speeduino Calculate after I'm aware of, but i think where are the mark for stock ecu, again, you go to junk jard and buy used ecu when youres is broken, thats is for me the start map should be.
That at lest push my customers in a good direction right.
(This have Just been nonsens) til you guys here have been helpful so far solving at lest a few issues, so thankful for that :)

To day messing a bit with the trigger wheel, the engine goes better like 20sec whit the fuelpump fuse out, JEEY I'm on my way to get her detoxicated from petrol, and goes SOON on Just air and care, that was my plan :D :D
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#57224
The first priority when an engine starts is to confirm the trigger angle is correct.

The sensor looks to be to far away from the wheel! Or have you removed it while adding timing marks?

Are you confident the TDC mark you have made is accurate? If so, then read on.

if that is a 60 tooth wheel, then each tooth is going to be 6* apart (360/60 = 6). So from that, you can easily add a timing mark at 12* btdc as a reasonable value for it to idle at. You could easily add them at 6, 12, 18 , and 24 if you find it helpful.

However, before you make any marks, read this topic.

https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 894#p35894

Once this is confirmed correct with a timing light, I'm sure the guys can help you sort out the idle issue.
#57227
Yes, this is a second engine i have to put togheter sence I'm losing the hope on this with Speeduino anyway, i got mail From Jonus Racing here, one supplayer of Maxecu in here in East norway, they only work with Maxecu's so :? Sent a New mail, "but you can drive it in tune bench Just to fintune and ned the papaers for road legal. Haven't got any answer back jet, if not when what to to :shock:

The Sensor is Just place on top of the screw yes to show it, the trigger wheel is stampt O/T i Just have marked it white to see it better tru oilcooler and stuff.
Yes 60/2 wheel.
Yes i started of safe, going from TDC and easy incrise up to 68° with miner difference was the same traktor tamp tamp tamp, un til you Came up with the update M52 2020-05 file, that at lest was gone, and the sey it worked as a demo in the car, i don't belive that anymore!
After that the idle control valve not spining but loud spinning frequency sound. It should be between 150 and 400, for not going to hot.
Last i hear from tem. Yes this is a good example, the stock ecu start the ICV is huming in ignition on, right.
But the speeduino dos not, that is what i Mean by is the signals in the ecu thustwordy in the first place!
#57230
So it's right at 36° as I have used but when I turn of looking angel the idle rises 500rpm
Is also get so fast hot i know there is somthing going on!
And it's is so mutch vacuum that the pop valve can't hold it closed in idle.
Yesterday it diden't idle t all, to day if dos, or in 1300-1500rpm range, and i haven't change anything to New parameters, Just tryed drfferentc angels and back to 36°, but that is enough for somthing other things changing!
I have 15.3 on Wideband gauge, 10.2 after it starts!

Now sure enought, standing for 25 minu i was just so send a new datalog and it woun`t start at all!
And sometimes when i turn off ignition i hear a klick some 15-20 secound after, i tought i was the fuelrele or diode loding out in ecu, but that also is isen`t constant too!
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#57273
Hehe oh yes, when warnings is just fine :shock: this isen't going to be easier if something happen in the future.

But things seems to go wrong before i can fix the first fault, then i don't reache learn it either, i think i got the wrong software, when is so on its 276° M50 but i tell them many time i got the M50TU, but do the M50 and M50TU use the same bord and Just change parameter i. TS, but again then i Using so mutch time to figure out things i payed RM to do abase mapAs you got wrong manual to you IKEA Bay, and you think, what the hekk did the engine ring guys think here :? Firts you have to find out if everything is in package.. i baught cabinet finish, i Just want to play around with the painting and where to put it right, if you understand.
I also look where to buy the speeduino kit, surthing M50B25TU pnp so i can build it on my own, and... OK, now i know this is the right hardware move forward, BUT even that is difficult to find, all bords in v0.3, 0. 4, 4.3, 4.4 and so on.. i Just want an M50TU pnplayyyy please :o So i have put the speeduino on is, mayby "she" got offenced, I don't need air Help, "Im not that old" :D And i haven't heard form The Dyno shop, they don't work with cheap stuff, tought :? Noting wrong with cheap, is the human error and terrible support for supplier that put this to slieep for me.
T-Castle
#57282
T-Castle wrote:
Fri Jun 03, 2022 10:11 am
I also look where to buy the speeduino kit,
Have to be honest I'm not fully following your posts, but it seems like some of the issues you would have to figure out with any standalone ECU.

There's some discussion of the M50 here:
https://github.com/pazi88/Speeduino-M5x-PCBs/issues/9

A PCB design for M50TU here: https://oshwlab.com/zoatex/speeduino-v0 ... 1-rev-0-3a

If you want to make an adapter board here is a guide, using a BMW ECU: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEDgiAwj4gk
#57284
Hi
Thanks for the links Purplelightning :)
The big Issue is that I have payed $400 for the first Ecu, delay inn the Project, it ended on the shelf, some 7-8month later it fily was start tine, connected to the pnp hardness, turn the ignition key and nothing happen, where is the Main relé klick? one more try, when this pop sound like transistor go bang, it fried it self, the circut to Main relé was gone, picture in start of post here. Can that be becase og the sent software for an M50 non vanos, So bught an New used one, for half the price of New one, ok hope this goes better, but it diden't either, standing in 276° no chanse, as the first one, i have the M50TU that is the same as M52 at least when it comes to the trigger angel, some miner diffrence in connetors to water temp, dobbel lamda, but I'm using the M50TU hardness on it. But do both m50 and 50mTU use the same pnp bord and smaler speeduino bord?
I had a hope not working with any electric on the other side of the pnp connetctor :D Becase i have enoght in the engine Bay to Think and work with. And leave that to the guys that work with it in daily bacis. Base map to Me is bye an used ecu on ebay and it Just work, now i can't learn anything when i dont trust the hardware, if i start changing, cps, or tps, ansorce here and there, oh no, it the ecu that has wrong software (mazda mx5 maybe (example) when i can stand for years.
BUT IT RUNS SO RITCH IT KILLS SPARKPLUGS AND DOSEN'T IDLE, YES...SOMETHIMES, there is something going on with the ICV signal, but again, the stock ecu set it in humming sound and runs the engine"fine" you can heare it's is de-compresed tought, if Just the speeduino had done the same, i Could work with it even learning some new stuff for the better sofwere guys here:) But now, I'm more... is it the ecu or any of my sencors, that worked fine befor the setup :? One thing too, when I turn the crank wheel the speeduino ecu make the clicks on every tooth, So ths get signals and works fine, or maybe it should not make the clicks!

So in frustration i finish bulid my hedders and the colector for non turbo, if need to change fast if something should go wrong!

T-Castle.
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