Any strange behaviour, crashing issues etc, post them here! Problems compiling the firmware should go in the General support section rather than here
By roger.rrgt
#56338
PSIG wrote: Tue Apr 05, 2022 2:01 pm It appears the majority of "blips" include a sync loss, with a total of (apparently) 9 sync losses. Oddly, the sync loss sometimes counts backwards or resets to zero. :? When this happens, several data streams wiggle, others have a slower transition (e.g., VBAT before and after certain events), and some show no change. Also, some show data that is suspiciously smooth, such as Lambda, which does eventually change from dead-rich but only for a moment. I presume there is no Lambda sensor in this system? If so, the blips are affecting data for stuff that isn't there. A clue.
Yeah, not using O2 sensor right now, too lazy to remove the exaust and weld a nut somewhere there :lol:. I will build a gig to simulate a trigger wheel and isolate any problem the eletrical system may have, feeding the board with a 12V wall adapter. Doing this should make life easier.
JHolland wrote:If you have an oscilloscope then I would recommend monitoring the 5V rail, set it to trigger on a negative edge at 4.5V. Drop outs on the supply can cause it to reboot but you can also have erratic operation of the code where the 5V rail drops below 4.5V but doesn't go low enough to reset the processor -there is a 'brown out' feature to prevent this but I don't believe that it is enabled in the Speeduino code.
Not having it make the things harder than should be and i recognize it. Will be looking for a cheap chinoscope in the near future, better than relying only to a multimeter. At the moment my 5V regulator circuit uses common electrolytic capacitors and they have no visual sign of damage. Can they fail somehow and cause fluctuation to the 5V or should they fail permanently?
By JHolland
#56343
roger.rrgt wrote: Tue Apr 05, 2022 10:13 pm Not having it make the things harder than should be and i recognize it. Will be looking for a cheap chinoscope in the near future, better than relying only to a multimeter. At the moment my 5V regulator circuit uses common electrolytic capacitors and they have no visual sign of damage. Can they fail somehow and cause fluctuation to the 5V or should they fail permanently?
If the caps have an adequate voltage rating then they should be OK, it would be more likely to be a wiring issue or a bad solder joint.
By roger.rrgt
#56352
JHolland wrote: Wed Apr 06, 2022 2:42 pm If the caps have an adequate voltage rating then they should be OK, it would be more likely to be a wiring issue or a bad solder joint.
Thank you for the patience. I found the culprit and the board is probably fine. Tried starting it today and it would only do a couple farts and then no more life signal, the coil (new btw) spark only twice and stops, so the weird data should be caused by the dying module/coil.
After 2 coils and modules and another hall sensor, i think i can trust more in the speeduino than the ignition pieces i can find and wont pay for more of that. That said, i will open a new thread somewhere in the forum to talk about a ignition driver.
User avatar
By Fera
#57114
hi .had lots of rpm noise problems on different cars. the last one was a few days ago. and it was a problem with the coils (from renault. (same as those of the nissan GTR 35) (4). They had a resistor at the output to the spark plug
Image(that resistor . was generating the whole noise problem)

today I am using passive coils (4) from honda k24 and never had a problem again.
but if you lift one and it doesn't make contact between the coil and the spark plug. the noise in the rpm signal starts and the car does not run
I can't fix this problem


As they told you before, try the ground points and check the coils and cables well. if you can put individual coils or coils with integrated module. Is the best option
User avatar
By pazi88
#57115
The resistor is in the coil to reduce noise. You just need to use correct plugs with resistor too.

When using ecu, you must always use coils/coil wires and plugs with resistors to prevent emi causing problems for the ecu. This is main reason why many carb/distributor setups have noise issues when converted to efi.
User avatar
By Fera
#57130
pazi88 wrote: Tue May 24, 2022 12:22 pm The resistor is in the coil to reduce noise. You just need to use correct plugs with resistor too.

When using ecu, you must always use coils/coil wires and plugs with resistors to prevent emi causing problems for the ecu. This is main reason why many carb/distributor setups have noise issues when converted to efi.
that was my experience with those coils
I have the correct plugs.
If so, how would you explain the fact that without resistors I have no noise?
and if I have noise with resistors

in the same way as roger I would like to understand the origin of this noise problem
because in my case it is something common with these ECUs
User avatar
By PSIG
#57136
Fera wrote: Wed May 25, 2022 3:59 pm
pazi88 wrote: Tue May 24, 2022 12:22 pm The resistor is in the coil to reduce noise. You just need to use correct plugs with resistor too.

When using ecu, you must always use coils/coil wires and plugs with resistors to prevent emi causing problems for the ecu. This is main reason why many carb/distributor setups have noise issues when converted to efi.

I have the correct plugs.
If so, how would you explain the fact that without resistors I have no noise?
and if I have noise with resistors
The question is relevant only to your setup and components, and the advice is correct in-basis. Why yours behaved that way could be explained several ways, just with experience I have had, but not with the info we have. You would have to investigate it with your components and resources.

Just to avoid an additional series of questions, some examples are: damaged original resistor units, non-functional fake components, replaced or altered units, etc. Common issues with cracks, fakes, poor connection, contamination, carbon tacking, and several other scenarios are possible. Personally, I have seen odd EMI issues with sloppy assembly (poor connections or fingerprints contaminated with anti-seize), or other unexpected issues as the image below.

TEST. In all cases, testing for EMI can be performed and solutions based on results applied. Whatever works, and it will be different in every case. ;) The list grows very long when you include spark plugs, wires, distributor components, motors, etc, in a specific vehicle.The one sure thing is that EMR/EMI is bad, and easy tests will reveal the source to be corrected. Always start by identifying the source. Fix that first.

We had a poor runner come in, random misfiring, trans shifting issues, with buzzing in the radio. Checking for noise, it was from two COPs. Disassembling to check internal connections, we found Euro torpedo fuses where the resistor pills should be. :shock: We don't know and don't care, but was likely either cheap knock-off coils or a replacement by a PO thinking it would improve spark. It doesn't:
Euro_fuse_in_fake_coil.jpg
Euro_fuse_in_fake_coil.jpg (9.29 KiB) Viewed 4723 times
By purplelightning
#57258
pazi88 wrote: Tue May 24, 2022 12:22 pmWhen using ecu, you must always use coils/coil wires and plugs with resistors to prevent emi causing problems for the ecu.
I was under the impression that you have a resistor in either the lead OR plug, but not both?
User avatar
By pazi88
#57266
purplelightning wrote: Thu Jun 02, 2022 6:48 pm
pazi88 wrote: Tue May 24, 2022 12:22 pmWhen using ecu, you must always use coils/coil wires and plugs with resistors to prevent emi causing problems for the ecu.
I was under the impression that you have a resistor in either the lead OR plug, but not both?
You need to have in both to avoid emi.
User avatar
By MattSkelton
#59940
I have been having cut outs/reboots of Speeduino. I am running a Core 4 TE36 from DIY EFI https://diy-efi.co.uk/product/diy-efi-core4-te36. Firmware is 202207.1

I am only using the crank trigger so a wasted spark ignition.

this is the coil pack with driver i am using https://diy-efi.co.uk/product/4-cyl_coil_pack , with my tr7 engine the plug come out opposing each other so the plug leads touch on mine.

When I am driving the car will randomly cut out usually on deceleration to a junction etc or sometimes I start then it will cut out, i I have found if i just crank it wont catch but if i turn off the ignition then back on it does, sometimes i can bump it this way.

As ever it never happens when I have a log running!

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