[dazq]

Finally managed to get some spare time and got the timing light working. Given the sensor offset is currently -84 degrees, the timing mark is at roughly 10-15 degrees mark (per the drawing above). Should I subtract 10 - 15 degrees to give -94 degrees timing offset if this is the case? Will double check but getting time to set this up and a willing volunteer is not easy to come by!

Assuming your timing light is non adjustable.
The timing mark it shows when running should be what speedy is expecting/set at . So if you set it to 10deg fixed in TS, then that is what you should read.
If it's not then you will need to add or subtract from the trigger value until the light lines up correctly.

[Shalmaneser]

That's the question - if the timing mark on the pulley is showing as roughly ten degrees advanced relative to the mark on the crank case do I add or subtract from the timing offset?! Very confusing. Maybe I'll just have to try both ways!

Problem is it's such a pain in the arse getting the timing light sensor in just the right place balanced on top of the coil to get a signal to fire the timing light!

Well that's what I was saying, what IS it supposed to be reading?
If it is supposed to be reading 5 is very different to if it should be reading 15 !
So the question is what do you have it set to be when it is reading 10deg by the strobe?

[PSIG]

Very confusing. Maybe I'll just have to try both ways!

This^^^ Get used to it, as tuning is diagnostic, meaning you try more, then try less, and use what is better or correct. Fuel, spark, Trigger Angle, idle, whatever - that's tuning.

Problem is it's such a pain in the arse ...

But only needs it once. Get it done and move on at a much faster rate. Tape the timing light pickup to the coil, rig a switch to your starter solenoid, and do it all yourself if that's the only option. We've all been there and understand!

[Shalmaneser]

Quick update - finally nailed the offset, it's -90. All plugs sparking and injectors injecting but not starting, just some coughs and splutters. I think it's overfuelling, need the check the fuel settings.

[PSIG]

All plugs sparking and injectors injecting but not starting, just some coughs and splutters.

If all is correct, then it's a correction to fuel-air-spark, either at wrong quantity or wrong time. I did not review your ignition setup; but for example, your timing is across 720° in a 4-stroke cycle, so is your spark 360° from correct? Is the correct spark time at -90 or is it 270 (the other TDC ) for spark following intake and compression?

Likewise, if you think it has too much fuel, key-on for injector prime, then press and hold the pedal for 100% throttle before cranking, which will stop any additional fuel (flood clear mode). It should fire momentarily on just the priming fuel. Simple tests to see where you are at, or what it may need that is different. Keep going!

[Shalmaneser]

The ECU is setup as wasted spark and with 6 cylinder semi-sequential - I would have thought this then doesn't matter if the offset is 360 degrees out?

I've attached the current tune would be good to see if I've made any glaring errors!

Note that I've setup 2 squirts per engine cycle, injector staging as alternating, injector layout as paired as TS says semi-sequential is for 4 cylinders or less... I'm not super confident with these settings!

[LPG2CV]

You don't have very much cranking enrichment! Or, priming pulse. Set the priming delay, to after the FP finishes priming.

What temperature are you trying to start at?

[Shalmaneser]

thanks for the feedback.

It's about 12 degrees in sunny London at the moment so not super cold.

[LPG2CV]

In the priming pulse change the prinming pulse @11* to 3. Crank, and see if you can get it to fire, or phut, or some indication that it wants to start.

From there, the fueling moves to Cranking enrichment. So if the engine trys to start, but doesn't hold, then incresae the fueling for CE at that
same temperature.

All the above, it to get the engine to start. After Start Enrichment (ASE), is there to sustain the engine, until it is running a little more smoothly. So again, you look to give it sufficient fuel at the right temperature. Also look at the lower table, which is the duration of time this applies.

Warm up enrichment (WUE), is the stage that keeps the engine going until it is warmed up. WUE is also applied through the last two stages.

All three stages of enrichment, are a multiplier of the current VE value. So you may want to keep an eye on the VE table as you are trying to get it started and running.

You need to get it warmed up, before you can tune the VE at Idle. It's a bit backwards, but will make sence when you do it.

[Shalmaneser]

Thanks that's super useful. Will give it another go tomorrow, lets me know which numbers to start messing around with!

One quick question - fuel pump prime have at 4 seconds, injector prime does it need to be 4 seconds + 1 second? IE does it need to be the fuel pump prime duration + X seconds or does it start once fuel pump prime has completed?

Will start off bumping up the cranking enrichment until something happens!