[Shalmaneser]

Ah great that was going to be a follow up question!

Nope, 'Start Lock' relay, Ignition and 'Main Relay' (for the ECU itself)

[Shalmaneser]

Quick update.

Got 2x 88pin Bosch connector from Alibaba:



bought 5x breakout boards from PCBWay/RusEFI:



finally started plugging things in to my Core4. Would love a datasheet for this thing, does anyone know what LC1 does!?



I've also got about 4 relays I need to fire, I think if I just connect these to GND they will fire at position III on key turn...

[Shalmaneser]

Progress!

TPS works
Coolant sensor works (Same as Bosch Temperature Sensor NTC M12)
Air temp works but uncalibrated - will check against Bosch NTC-M12-L which is air temp version of above
DI+MFI relay just needs to be grouded

Can't quite figure out how to test the tacho output from tunerstudio.
'Terminal 30' which I thought was switched live appears to be perm. live which is irritating.

Going to test idle/VVT/Fuel Pump next and resolve these relays...

[Shalmaneser]

I've grounded two out of three of the relays but somehow there is no way to turn off the Speeduino other than unplugging. This relays system is pretty confusing. One trips the other I think.

Other than that the TPS,CLT, IAT, FAN, F.PMP all work.

Question to anyone reading this!

VVT, TACH and IDLE1&2 are wired in but I can't see how to test them - does anyone have any tips here? Tested the fan by tweaking the setting in TS but can't see a way to do similar with the VVT and idle settings. Likewise with the Tacho I can't see how to simulate an output.

The car now cranks and I'm getting a read on the RPM log so that's great. Need to get TS Pro so I can do some tooth logging, The main sensor clearly logs (VR) but I need to check the Hall effect.

Just need to wire in the injectors and ignitors at this point I think, along with wideband O2.

How do I use a test lamp to verify the timing with COP?

[jonbill]

I've used an old spark plug lead to extend between a cop and the spark plug and attached the timing light to that.

[Shalmaneser]

Getting close to first fireup. Have found out I only need to close three relays, one 'main relay' and one 'start lock' which both go to ground and another relay for the 12V permanent live.. The main relay can be controlled by the ignition switched 12V output, which should do the same thing to the 12V permanent live. The start lock will need to be controlled from the Speeduino itself from a low side output. I would wire this to be permanently on but im worried it will blow up or something. This way I can mirror the OE behavior too (on at ignition, off after 20 seconds).

I've asked on the facebook group but not got any responses - how do I configure the low side outputs on tunerstudio? from the 'setting/programmable outputs'? If so how is it possible to find out which pin corresponds to which output? I've got numbers 3-53 and A8-A15!!! Seems a lot! This is fiddling around the edges though to some extent.

ICV is working (or at least buzzing, it's a three wire PWM unit. Injectors wired up but not tested, I will disable the fuel pump to fire them in batches. Getting RPM signal from the VR sensor, have coughed up for tooth logger on TS MS.

I'm actually amazed at how well everything 'just works'. No doubt it won't all be plain sailing.

[dazq]

The pin chosen is the actual MCU pin.
You will need to look at the board schematic you are using to see which pin is routed to the spare output drivers.

[Shalmaneser]

ignitors are all connected - 2x Bosch 203 modules. I've bought some Arduino MOSFET boards to control spare digital outs - hopefully haven't blown up outputs on the board itself. I do need some heatsinks for the ignitors.

Not getting a reading from the hall effect cam sensor - i've just noticed there is a space on the Core4 breakout board for a 1k resistor in line with the RPM2 signal which I'm hoping should rectify that, just need to find a surface mount 1k now...

I've noticed during cranking that all four ignition LEDs are flashing, even though I've set the board as 6 cylinder wasted spark - is this expected? Seems odd. Getting good crank VR signal.

Do people run their wideband when attempting first start? Am a little nervous of destroying the sensor, although clearly I'd like to know how the car is running. I assume people do so, but would like to confirm! I've got the luxury of a running motor/ECU combo so am tempted to get the car up to temp before trying first start with the speeduino, any benefit to this?

[PSIG]

Not getting a reading from the hall effect cam sensor …

Have you traced all components in the entire circuit, for where the signal is lost or corrupted? Such as - sensor output OK at the sensor? Signal still found at ECM connector? Signal found at PCB input? Signal still found at board conditioning circuit input? At the output? And so on.

Do people run their wideband when attempting first start? Am a little nervous of destroying the sensor, although clearly I'd like to know how the car is running.

I do not pre-heat the O2 on first-start, as fueling and adjustments are about as bad as they will ever be at that point, and casual observation should suffice for guiding it to run to warm for the seconds until the sensor begins reading. Normal operation. However, once the warm idle and low-speed areas are tuned reasonably well, and warm restart is solid, I may pre-heat the O2 to dial-in first-fire, ASE and WUE affects. That risk is entirely on me, balanced against the perceived benefits of doing so.

As a perspective, and in the scope of the entire project and costs; I regard O2 sensors as consumables. Like oil, filters, spark plugs, etc. I use them for what I need, and replace them when appropriate or when they fail. It is a cost of doing what you're doing. How important is the data versus what it could cost you if it fails?

I've got the luxury of a running motor/ECU combo so am tempted to get the car up to temp before trying first start with the speeduino, any benefit to this?

If the system is compatible, that's up to you. I do not find much value to it myself, but it could be useful for gathering pertinent data for settings, such as normal operating temperatures for settings, or actual fuel pressures, system voltages, etc, to make more accurate estimated first-run settings. Up to you for if that is worthwhile.

[Shalmaneser]

Not getting a reading from the hall effect cam sensor …

Have you traced all components in the entire circuit, for where the signal is lost or corrupted? Such as - sensor output OK at the sensor? Signal still found at ECM connector? Signal found at PCB input? Signal still found at board conditioning circuit input? At the output? And so on.

Do people run their wideband when attempting first start? Am a little nervous of destroying the sensor, although clearly I'd like to know how the car is running.

I do not pre-heat the O2 on first-start, as fueling and adjustments are about as bad as they will ever be at that point, and casual observation should suffice for guiding it to run to warm for the seconds until the sensor begins reading. Normal operation. However, once the warm idle and low-speed areas are tuned reasonably well, and warm restart is solid, I may pre-heat the O2 to dial-in first-fire, ASE and WUE affects. That risk is entirely on me, balanced against the perceived benefits of doing so.

As a perspective, and in the scope of the entire project and costs; I regard O2 sensors as consumables. Like oil, filters, spark plugs, etc. I use them for what I need, and replace them when appropriate or when they fail. It is a cost of doing what you're doing. How important is the data versus what it could cost you if it fails?

I've got the luxury of a running motor/ECU combo so am tempted to get the car up to temp before trying first start with the speeduino, any benefit to this?

If the system is compatible, that's up to you. I do not find much value to it myself, but it could be useful for gathering pertinent data for settings, such as normal operating temperatures for settings, or actual fuel pressures, system voltages, etc, to make more accurate estimated first-run settings. Up to you for if that is worthwhile.

I guess I would need a scope at the cam sensor to check for output? I'm just armed with a voltmeter at this point. I am sure it's correct though as the standard ECU isn't having any trouble. I will double check the wiring though, it could be a different ECU pin however... worth confirming. I've got a 1k pull up resistor which hopefully will resolve the issue.

It's crossed my mind I don't need a cam signal for first start as I'm running batch injection anyway, but better to get things nailed down at this point I think.

Totally appreciate that o2 sensors are cheap relative to a knackered engine! Was just wondering what the 'best practice' is.