[PSIG]

I agree you may have a common problem, as your temp sensor also varies, when they are typically very stable with slow changes. I have even seen this issue when only excess flux is still on the board, as the inputs are very sensitive. A floating (disconnected) input can read anything due to this, and touching a pin with your finger can change the readout or function. Posting your tune and a log of this random behavior may help to find other data streams with clues to the issue. Maybe.

[soultron]

I appreciate all the feedback everyone. I won't be able to get a log until maybe the weekend. I did add a thick direct ground lead.
https://youtu.be/xaHX7670_lI
I don't know if that will help with the idle, but I'll give it a shot. I also have a set of 19 lb (180ish cc) injectors from my Trans Am, some carburetor cleaner, and O-rings.

[zwelsh91]

I watched your video, nice to see you saw some improvement. What board are you using? IE: UA4C, v0.4.x, v0.3.x etc
My next question is if you are grounding your sensors to the vehicle chassis or directly back to the ground on the speeduino? there should be a separate ground for the sensors to hook to on your speeduino. The most direct and lowest noise connection is going to be the sensor ground rather than chassis ground. The reason being the circuit is designed to give a stable 0v reference for the speedy to use in calculating sensor data. For example on a my NO2C there is one ground on the input side of the connector for the sensors and 3 grounds next to the +12v input for the chassis/battery ground.

[soultron]

I have the speedy efi UA4C and thier harness.They seemed to have the best feedback and I wasn't keen on building my own. I think it's speeduino build from last year, not sure of the number.
Each sensor has it own ground to the ECU (recommended by speedyefi) which is now grounded to the battery instead of the firewall near the fusebox.

[zwelsh91]

That answers all of my questions. Sounds like you're wired up correctly and moving in the right direction. I noticed in the Video that the only thing that seemed to float in value was the O2 sensor. That may be somewhat normal. For example with the 14point7 Spartan2 it does a self calibration/test and shows 13.2 for 5 seconds then 16.6 for 5 seconds after key on, then finally begins to display the current reading.

Do you have good injector data for the 19lb injectors and will they fit in the injector cups and on the rail? I would try those if you can. You would be way closer on flow rate for your intended application.

[soultron]

Do you have good injector data for the 19lb injectors and will they fit in the injector cups and on the rail? I would try those if you can. You would be way closer on flow rate for your intended application.

Took the fuel rail apart today and they are indeed G60 injectors according to the part number ( 280150905). The 19 lb injectors are a a couple of millimeters longer and fit the cups and rail with the same O-rings but the place where the clip slides in is deeper. It looks as if I could assemble everything and tighten the rail into the bracket and then put the Clips in place but I might see if there are other clips that fit better. Might not be a bad time to swap out the fuel pressure regulator since this is a part but we will see.

[zwelsh91]

I would think if you can get the 2 bolts in the bracket to retain the rail that you should be fine for testing. If it was me I would try it, do a little testing and if everything seemed to work out I would then order injectors of the correct size with the correct grooves for the retaining clips and go from there. It wouldn't hurt to order up a fuel pressure regulator. I ordered one off rockauto.com for about $35 shipped just lookup the bosch part number on the side of the regulator ex: 078 133 534C (this is a VW part number check out FCP euro website they have a good application list in the part description.

In essence I have already done the above. I have gone from 14.2ms req_fuel to 11.0ms and things have finally stabilized. ( saw a 33% increase in mileage last tank over what I had before installing speeduino) Like I said before, I got the bait and switch on amazon when I bought injectors and ended up receiving roughly 260cc/min when I ordered 190cc/min.

[soultron]

I probably could have asked how this works but I think I got the log and tune in this zip. Let me know if I didn't do it right. I took what I thought worked and put it on a thumb drive.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1IkOMcG ... p=drivesdk

I didn't mess around with the firebird injectors for very long because I didn't like how they were fitting. I ended up getting some modern style injectors which also had grooves that were just off by a hair but I didn't have to use any extra washers or anything to make them fit. It still already acts a little better.

[zwelsh91]

I had a look at your log/tune and a couple things stand out to me.

1) TPS sits at 15-17% at idle. Have you used TS to set the 0% and 100% TPS accordingly? Use calibrate tps under tools in TS

2) MAP signal is a flat 68kpa and does not move. Have you selected the correct sensor in TS and Calibrated it? Also found under tools>calibrate pressure sensors

3) The PW at idle is way way too long should be in the neighborhood of say 1.4-1.8ms I would suggest if you have the registered version of TS using the VE table generator and generating a table based on the stock N/A performance characteristics of your egine. Should be in the neighborhood of 110hp @ 5800rpm and 112ft/lb at 3800 rpm idle around 950-1100 rpm and at least on my rig the kpa at idle is never lower than 40

4) your spark table is was out of whack. ( most likely will do for first startup and such, though) I'll share spark tables for you as a starting point when I get home from work today

one last thing would be to try setting all of the analog sensor filters to the recommended defaults it may smooth out your data a bit.

[soultron]

Okay. Glad I was able to get the information posted correctly. I'll definitely have to go through your suggestions piece by piece. The throttle is probably open because I was holding it to keep it from dying.
I still don't think the TPS is working properly because I've calibrated it plenty of times only to have it act up or wander. I have the part number so I might look for a better quality piece.
One mechanical bit I remembered from when I installed the throttle body is that the blade was nearly closed so I made a minor adjustment.
I also had the trigger angle at 25° even though I measured it to 20. After I changed both of those things the car would actually stay idling albeit very low and hunting.

I did the table generator and it's vastly different looking than it was before so that's probably going to make a huge difference. I did notice the map sensor issue today and I'm waiting to hear back from the Builder to make sure I select the correct one. I really appreciate the advice and help.