Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#44183
Hello Board,

I picked up a for-parts Polaris ATV that I was able to resurrect, albeit running on only 1 cylinder. The culprit seemed to be the ECU failing to ground one of the injectors. Perfect for a Speeduino!

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I have soldered together a WTM NO2C for this project.

What I know
-2 Cylinder 4 Stroke EFI Twin (watercooled) originally running a Bosch EFI system
-Bosch Injectors Hi-Z at 14.5ohm
-"DC/CDI Ignition" claimed by the shop manual
-60-2 Flywheel with hall sensor pickup - schematic shows it to be a 3-wire sensor, 560 ohms. This is easy to test while cranking

What I think I know
-TPS is a standard 3 wire potentiometer style. I just need to calibrate TunerStudio for the closed and WOT values
-Temp sensor is a negative temp coefficient type that I will need to calibrate in icewater/boiling water
-I think my ignition is a "dumb coil" type

What I definitely don't know
-I don't know how to tackle the ignition part of the system. The shop manual shows the following:
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The shop manual mentions the system as being fed by the 12V battery, and the ECU is responsible for discharging the coil at the appropriate time. This sounds like it would be supported by Speeduino, but I am unclear. This blurb is right out of the manual:
Battery/Charging System – Efficient operation of the EFI system depends on a fully charged battery and properly operating charging system. The Ignition Coils paragraph will explain why.

Ignition Coils – Located under the left front fender mounted on the frame. On an EFI machine the DC/CDI system relies on battery power for ignition. Instead of generating DC voltage via magnetic induction (a.k.a. the stator), a 12 volt DC current is supplied directly to the ECU from the battery. 12 volt DC current charges an internal capacitor to build up the initial ignition charge. An A/C signal from the Crank Shaft Position Sensor is processed by the ECU, which determines ignition timing by calculating from a point pre-determined in the crankshaft rotation. This signal releases the electrical charge which saturates the coil for ignition. DC/CDI systems have the ability to ignite with as little as 6 volts of power.
I look forward to getting this thing running properly! As I tear it apart, I am very broadly sizing the components and seeing what may fit. The idea is a 2-seater UTV like vehicle to cruise the wooded trails in northern Minnesota. Plus, a turbo can be slapped on when it starts to feel a little slow :lol:

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Cheers
#44189
That would appear to be a dumb ignition coil!
If it is do NOT connect this direct to speedy!!!!!serious damage could occur!
You will need a driver/ignitor to fire it.
Although the 211 Bosch type are 4ch they are cheap and can just run 2 if wanted
#44225
ou will need a driver/ignitor to fire it.
daz, thank you this is exactly what I was looking for! I have a bosch 2ch module, but wasn't sure on its compatability.
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Searching this part number returns varied results.

I have seen the Bosch 0211 pop up as a recommendation before. I'll do some research to see what I need from Speedy pin to the spark plug and generate a buy list.
#44226
thenar wrote:
Mon Jul 13, 2020 1:20 pm
ou will need a driver/ignitor to fire it.
daz, thank you this is exactly what I was looking for! I have a bosch 2ch module, but wasn't sure on its compatability.
Image
Searching this part number returns varied results.

I have seen the Bosch 0211 pop up as a recommendation before. I'll do some research to see what I need from Speedy pin to the spark plug and generate a buy list.
What part number is your module? I have awaiting diagram for a two Ch module, I will post it on here later.
#44228
Hmm not sure if they are the same pinnout, you could try a cross reference.
Here is the diagram I have for two Ch
Attachments
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#44539
Dazq, thanks for the info. I ended up buying a Bosch 200 as your datasheet described and will be testing it out soon.

I've been trying to bring sensors online and calibrated on the bench.
-TPS calibration was easy, I really appreciated the software resistance measurement!
-AIT calibration required an ice bath dip, ambient check against a house thermometer, and a boiling water dip. This should be close enough for now
-CLT TBD, the vehicle hasn't been drained yet and I figured that would be easy enough down the road, however

I cannot get my crank sensor to relay RPM to TunerStudio. Here is what I've got:
-Inductive sensor with Coil+/Coil-/Shield. Installed the DSC and wired to VR1+/VR1-, shield to ECU ground. On the bench I could get the diagnostic LED to light when spinning a ferrous object around a plastic wheel chucked into a drill. Ready to go!
-Installed in the vehicle, I can crank using the starter (plugs out, nothing else connected) and see the diagnostic LED flashing almost solid
-Reversing polarity on the coil pins has no effect. Changing from falling to leading with and without reversing the coil pins has no effect.

I tried to research on the board and /u/psig mentioned if your LED is flashing, wiring is good. It must be a settings issue. The trigger angle was calculated by counting the teeth from the leading tooth @ Cylinder#1 TDC location to where the crank sensor would pick it up. Something like 41/42 teeth around the flywheel ended up being 41.5/60*360=249deg
I have set jumpers to the best of my understanding according to the speedy manual,
Crank Sensor Cam Sensor JP2 JP3 JP4 JP5
VR Sensor - VR Off Off Off

My trigger settings are what I expect based on some other posts,
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Tune is located here:https://ufile.io/4qfru6dg

Anybody know if I need to have anything changed? Once I have this figured out I should be able to wire everything up and get it to start.

Another hopefully simple question involves my plan to use the fuel pump power relay to run other EFI fuel/spark components. Any reason that Speeduino would have an issue when the FP primes? This seems acceptable based on my understanding.
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Also doing a bit of work on front suspension geometry. The hard part I guess is estimating the corner weight to set the ride height on a buggy that doesn't exist :lol:

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#44544
Have some remarks on your schematic.

Starter/alternator, If you connect the alternator main to the starter and from there to the battery, no problem.
But don't tap in other wires on the connection between starter and alternator.
Why, at cranking you get a lot of amps through a wire and although it is a wire it acts as a resistor and you get voltage drop.
Also at cranking starter produces a lot of electrical noise.

Use a separated wire from battery to fuse box, as I explained above.

Use the run switch to switch on relays which have there fused mains before the run switch, also a matter of voltage drop.

Seeing your set up, igniters and injectors can be switched whit one relay but give them each its own fuse, convenient on testing.
Also see the wiki on wiring.

Fuel pump its own relay.
Why is there a sender wire ?

Speeduino 12Vdc its own relay.

Check starter solenoid circuit are you sure solenoid is switch to main ?

Remember this is an advise, no obligations. :D
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