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Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
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Stroker wrote:
Sun Mar 29, 2020 8:24 pm
I have the Black TFI module so not sure how they differ?
Do I still need a reverse diode? If so, how do I wire it in?
Some about the CCD "black" modules here. Yes, any digital input into Speeduino above 5V needs signal conditioning (such as a diode), as shown here. Anywhere between the signal source and the input, or even on the Speeduino board inline in the input circuit.

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By Stroker
I've managed to get the engine running on the TFI. But I seem to have any annoying miss-fire that causes the rev counters to flick about when the miss fire occurs. The logger shows a constant 6 pulse wave from the TFI input. I've check the rotor phasing and as far as I can tell it looks good.
Jumper#1 set to 12v
Jumper#2 set to Hall
Jumper#4 set to on
Mode = basic distributor
Trigger Angle = -10
Trigger edge = rising
filter = off
Ignition load source = MAP
Cranking output triggers = 0
Spark outputs triggers = going high
use new ignition mode = off
Running dwell = 4.0
spark duration =1.0
I used a FR107 Fast Recovery Diode 1A 1000V in series with the PIP with no pull down resistor, hope this is ok.
I've set timing with spout turned off to 10 Degrees, when I turn spout on this jumps up to my ignition map settings of about 22 degrees at idle.
When I get the miss fire I notice the timing scatters around at bit.
I need to find the cause of the miss fire before moving to the fueling side of my conversion.
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By Stroker
I have been researching the TFI module on my car further. The module being black in colour would indicate that it is a CCD-TFI module, but it takes the grey TFI connector and I also found this.


So this indicates that it is a PS-TFI, all a bit confusing.
I have managed to clear my misfire and rough running by increasing the running dwell up to 6.2ms.
Also I have turned on filtering = weak
So I'm wondering if you have to give the module more dwell than it needs to let the module manage the dwell.
The coil after 20minutes of running is quite cool to touch, guessing it's around 30-35 degrees C.
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By Stroker
Ok, found a wiring issue with the coil, now running 3ms dwell. So much happier with that, more like where it should be. :D
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By Stroker
Managed to get the engine running on my Speedy with fuel and ignition, but before I start trying to tuning it I just want to make sure that I have the injector dead time right in TS.
My injector specs say "Turn on time @ 14VDC: 1.14ms and Turn off time: 0.85ms @ 300KPa" So do I just enter the 1.14ms into TS, or I read a thread(but now can't find)that mentioned opening time minus the closing time or was it plus the closing time? Sorry I can't find that thread and I'm a bit confused as to what to enter in TS.
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By Stroker
After some time sorting out starter motor parts, I now have the engine back running again. I've managed to get the car quite driveable, but would appreciate a little help or some direction at this stage with the tune and settings.
My engine is N/A but quite modified from standard and I'm finding with my VE tables, that at idle it is around the 30VE mark, but just requires huge amounts of fuel everywhere else in relation to the idle VE. Kind of of wondering if I have missed something in the settings or this is sort of normal for a modified engine. Cheers

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A few things that may help it respond better and allow easier tuning —
If your injectors are paired (two injectors per-channel) properly to the same cylinders that wasted-spark would be paired (sister cylinders that TDC at the same time, 1-5, 4-3, 2-6), then your squirts should be 2, not 3. You want an injection for every TDC on each cylinder, not 3 per-cycle. This may also be pushing the injectors to drop into a non-linear flow range, and possibly one reason for the stepped VE values (see below).

To avoid fighting incorrect settings, I'd also flatten your IAT Retard (until you know what you really need), and enter some valid values into your Injector Corrections table (see above, and it will need some re-tuning), and the Dwell Voltage Corrections table. Cranking dwell doesn't affect TFI or GM HEI and a few other systems, but for others; once you have good Dwell Corrections, you can calculate your Dwell Protection time to allow full spark energy from cranking to redline at the set dwell period.

For now, you don't want soft retard interfering with tuning your high-rpm areas. Raise the soft limit rpm to at or above the hard limit, or lower your hard limit to the soft limit if that's as high as it should go. Most applications will not want or need soft limiting dumping heat into the system near redline anyway.

There are other changes I would make, but those should help you to "see" what the engine needs easier and without fighting wonky settings while trying to tune. Good to see it running! 8-)
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By Stroker
Thanks for looking at it for me.
I have the injectors in pairs and have tried it with 2 squirts but I felt it seemed to idle better with 3 squirts.
I will have another go tomorrow with 2 squirts and see how it goes.

I haven't fitted the IAT sensor as yet. So I didn't think it would have a bearing on the tune. But will flatten it as advised.
Will also make the other changes you recommend tomorrow.

I'm having trouble with the rev counter under reading by around a good 6-700rpm low and this is why I've been hitting the soft limiter as 5300rpm on the rev counter is hitting 6100rpm on the logger. I have hit the hard limiter once and I crapped myself with the bang it made. I thought the engine had blown up. :o The rev counter is driven from the TFI but for some reason it's a bit unpredictable at the moment. I think I will have to look at using the Speedy tacho output for it.

Even as badly tuned as it is, I'm really happy with the way it pulls from as low as 900rpm till the limiter and it'll hopefully get better with a proper tune. So much better than the old K-Jet :D
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Cool, and I'd suggest saving a new tune for the experiment ("Sierra_2-squirts" or whatever), so you can play all you like and still go right back to where you were by loading the original tune. I always keep my first tune for reference ("CurrentTune"), then a working tune with best results so far ("Project_Name_LAST GOOD"), and then experiment on specific stuff with testing tunes ("Project_Name_Idle_Timing+4").

If test results are poor, I delete the test tune and go back to Last Good to try again. If the results are good, I save that experiment as Last Good, delete the test tune, and move-on. Hope that helps keep things sorted and easier to progress. Use whatever method works for you.


-122 I think, if thats tdc on compression stroke.

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