[Steveweippert]

From a holley annihilator ignition setup

[PSIG]

Looks like it could be a convenient place to begin tests. Some simple testing of the wheel and sensor may reveal if it could be functional, before modifications to install the V8 wheel and new sensor. If no joy, one of the advanced ATS or similar sensors could be easily mounted inside the housing with room to spare, as a backup plan.

While a simple adapter bushing could be made on a lathe or maybe high-temp 3D, I have also used high-temp structural epoxy paste to create a form-in-place bushing and simultaneously anchor the little wheel. That's a fancy way to say I glued it in. Mix and apply the paste, verify centering and no wobble, and let it set until cured. Don't like it? Pop it out and remove remaining material with a tool or wire wheel. Have fun!

[Steveweippert]

I'll have to look into that sensor is it a thread in or anything similar?

[PSIG]

There are what seem to be a million choices of Hall sensors. Unfortunately, many of them are for specific purposes or actions, and we want to profile ferrous wheel teeth as a clean square signal. This means a specific type of Hall sensor* with a built-in bias (back) magnet, which is the most common type for automotive uses. Again, there are many choices, but a couple examples could be a short threaded-cylinder type (ZF/Cherry GS100710) or a bare sensor element you glue on a spacer block to the inside of the distributor body (ATS617 in the image below). This level of choices can drive you crazy, or give you options that work with your sense of how to get a sensor in there. I have not tested either type on the specific wheel type you have. Good luck!

David

[Edit for info] * Typically, automotive crankshaft and cycle (cam) angle Hall sensors may be a type that is: switching, non-latching, unipolar, back-biased, and either open-collector or open-drain. Use care in selecting "smart" sensors, as they may have features for other special purposes, such as reading dual-direction (transmissions or stop-start) or circuitry to purposely ignore damaged or missing teeth.

Here I'm holding an Allegro ATS617 engine crankshaft gear tooth sensor ($8-$10), along with some hardware store parts (+$) to make my own "smart" version of the ZF. Mount the sensor in other ways as you see fit:


Here is the ZF GS100701 short sensor ($25 and up online). Drill a hole and thread it, or plain hole at wheel height and use jam nuts to position the depth:

[Steveweippert]

That is awesome is there anywere I can buy that one ?

[Steveweippert]

Found it on digikey ordered 2. Bet I could sneak those things in anywere. Curious why 4 pin vs 3 though what makes it smart.

[Steveweippert]

I see it says test on one of the pins curious. So this will output a 0-5v signal or will I have to use a conditioner? I cant wait to get to work on that one I can prob make it look stock almost.

[turboedge]

Hey Steve,

These pull to ground, so with a pull-up on the Speeduino they become 0v/5v square wave and require no conditioner. If you need one let me know. I have a few of the predecessor ATS616, which is virtually identical.

Weaver

[PSIG]

[EDIT] Ha! Weaver beat me to it.

I see it says test on one of the pins curious. So this will output a 0-5v signal or will I have to use a conditioner?

No conditioner. Output is a float/ground signal.

Output. The device output is an open-drain stage. An external pull-up (resistor) must be supplied to a supply voltage of not more than VCC(max).

So, just hook it up and use the Speeduino pullup jumpers per the Wiki settings for Hall input. Output becomes a 0V--5V square wave trigger signal into Speeduino.

[Steveweippert]

Awesome I just finished up the .3.7 I got from you weaver also have the no2c from your sponsorship that's going in the van. I'd like one if you have a couple how much would you want? I'll be getting a .4 soon I just like building them.