[Jcrotts]

I started discussing this project in another topic, but I wanted to get help under a single topic, so I'm starting a new one here. I have started with ignition only but something is going on with my trigger or something and I can't figure out what it is. I can get it to start and go through the rpm range, but only with locked timing. I can set my ignition timing anywhere between 3-7 degrees and it runs good, but any higher or lower and it goes crazy, rpm jumps all over the place and it randomly loses sync and misfires, no matter what rpm it's at. I have tried the trigger filters, but they don't seem to help. Why would firing angle cause this? Is there some setting I need to turn off for ignition only I may have missed?

[theonewithin]

Pull out timing light and make sure trigger.offswt is actually correct.

If it is you really need to provide a lot more detail on your setup.

What coil?

What ignitor(if using one)

Resistor type plugs?

What type of crank sensor?

What does a tooth log look like?

[Jcrotts]

I have offset at 228 and the ignition timing is right. 5 degrees at 400 rpm, right where I want it. I tried adjusting offset a few degrees along with ignition timing to compensate and see what happens and it gives the same problem . 3-7 degrees is all the ignition timing I have. The manual for the tractor says 9-11 degrees at 1200 rpm, but it won't do it. I have a GM LS2 truck coil using internal ignitor with a GM 8 pin module with crank sensor from 1997 Nissan Sentra for pickup, 36-1 crank wheel. They aren't resistor plugs, but wouldn't that affect the entire range and not just a particular spot? Its only changing firing position. It starts, idles, and runs perfectly and doesn't loose sync until I mess with the timing.

[theonewithin]

Change the plugs.

Non resistor style plugs are a major source of electrical noise.

What does a tooth log look like?

[Jcrotts]

Don't have tooth logger, I'm using MS lite. I'll change the plugs and see what happens. I'm also using a single LS coil with a distributor, which may be causing some issues from what I have read. I doubt it though, because I used one on my rotary go kart . It handled spark great until the crank sensor lost sync at 11,000 rpm, and I was pushing that coil HARD.

[theonewithin]

Pay for TS.

The tooth logger will provide very useful info on VR sensor issues.

With it you can see if you have polarity backwards or have selected the wrong trigger edge (depends on which conditioner you are using).

[LAV1000]

I'm also using a single LS coil with a distributor,

Are you sure the distributor arm is well aligned, compared to cilinder and ignition advance ?

[LPG2CV]

When I changed to Resistor type plugs, the difference was like night and day.

[Jcrotts]

The polarity on the sensor is right, I had it backwards at first and got no signal, so I reversed it and it worked. Stock ignition timing runs between 4-17 degrees. I haven't touched the distributor, and it had full advance before I switched anything. It runs as long as I dont go out of 3-7 degrees with locked timing. If I use the advance table, the rpm gauge in TS starts showing random numbers (really high to really low rpm) and ignition timing jumps all over the place. Locked timing shows actual rpm, and runs smoothly, anywhere in the rpm range, until I go above 7 degrees, then it does the same thing. Can't go above 7 degrees by changing trigger offset a couple degrees either. It's like anything above 7 degrees throws the whole system off.

I'll try resistor plugs to start and see what happens.

[LAV1000]

Are you sure you didn't set an offset at your ignition table ?
Otherwise try this, store the current ignition table and make a new one between 3- 7 and test it.
Also post your current (settings) .msq file.