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Help with building your Speeduino, installing it, getting it to run etc.
#46653
I wasn't connecting CAN H and CAN L together. I did this with CAN TX and CAN RX :)
Anyway it's working :)
Shame on me, I REALLY should read the data sheet first :D There is no crossing between tx/rx on teensy and transceiver and that was my mistake.
Thanks for help with this matter. It is always some obvious trifle.

Next thing is how to cheat the CLT in a proper way.

I'm using right now the sensor in ring-shaped aluminum housing that is mounted under the spark plug. What bothers me in this solution is slightly lower CR on the cylinder with the sensor and there is a huge reading error due to small amount of cooling air passing over the plug. What is more this error differs randomly.

Is there any solution 'by the book' to cheat CLT for air cooled engine? I was trying to lower the threshold of warmup enrichment but with no success. ECU still was able to flood the engine.
#46655
For air cooled engine, the best way is a cylinder head temperature sensor (CHT), like a type K probe. You put it just between spark plug and cylinder head.
Just check: http://thesensorconnection.com/cht-sens ... -and-14-mm
#46656
Thermocouple under-spark-plug CHT sensors are great, and are $5 and up online, but do not output a usable signal for Speeduino. You can make or buy an analog-analog amplifier interface to get it done, but that gets involved or expensive (more info here). VW has used a Bosch CHT sensor for many years that works directly with Speeduino (see here), and your engine may have a threaded location in the head already or a suitable spot to put it. There are yet more options in the forums to consider.

Keep in-mind that temperatures are relative, and so if they are stable (e.g., oil temp, or stable head temp location) then you can tell Speeduino what temperatures are equivalent at that location for operation (mostly warm-up fueling).
#46660
Right now I have KOSO sensor which is dedicated to two stroke engines and the adapter under plug is significantly thick.
It is NTC thermistor so no problem to connect it to speedy, but I really am worried about the CR differences in the future.

I am 100% sure that there is no any specific nest for this bosch sensor that you mentioned. This engine is simply too old and none of bosch technology was used within it's design and manufacture.

I think the best would be to move the sensor to the rear row of cylinders, I guess it will be in some sort of aerodynamic shadow or something. There is literally no better place in my opinion.
Image

Last thing I wanted to ask is primary trigger on the cam. Now I have primary trigger 60/2 on the crank and secondary on the left cam but I'm wondering if there will be any drawback of transferring the primary also to the cam. Using 30/1 trigger wheel with reduced rpm by half of the camshaft should give the same endpoint.
Correct me if I'm wrong :)
#46690
Because there is no retaining key on the fan hub. I guess 2cv has the same type of mounting the fan to the crank, so you know there is no way to key it properly without dismantling the whole engine.

On the other hand, on right hand bank head originally was mounted distributor. Its mount is perfect to accommodate the primary trigger apart from the timing belt inertia and measurement inaccuracy derived from it.
#46697
Well, you just broke the boxer :)

As you can see here stock engine is kinda unstable.
The biggest advantage of having boxer engine is no vibrations on the body and I want to keep it that way :)
That's why no flywheel milling is allowed in this project.

Does anyone have any experience with the CNP ignition coils from link below? I want to upgrade from single coil to four independent
https://pitstopusa.com/i-23960536-allst ... d514a.html
Also thought about typical COP but haven't found yet short enough to fit this engine.

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