[Dagaz_Psi]

Sorry, I see what you mean now, make a circuit directly off the ignition switch. I quite like the idea of using a spare output just because it involves less messing around with wiring but I have no idea how to set it up. I've found the programmable output window in Tunerstudio but I need to find out which numbers the output pins are.

I'll do some research and see if I can bodge something together next weekend.

Thanks for your help!

Ground the 'extra' relays and use the switched +12V from the fuel pump relay to power them. 3, 4, 5, however many relays can be powered this way from one Speeduino fuel pump output.

The advantage over the inginition switch - if the switch is left on, Speeduino will cut off the relays.

You need to do quite alot of rewiring to make that work properly.
If you just ground them together trough the uln they have a tendenscie to start ossicilate at the slightest voltage drop, like cranking and when the ignition is switched of.

[LPG2CV]

When you have sorted your wiring, you can generate a new ignition table from here.

http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm

[Cylinder 8]

Thanks All,

I've managed to bodge something together. I now have a relay triggered by a switched live from the ignition switch which connects the wire that earths the main relay and coil pack relay. Yes, I'm using a relay to control a relay. Anyway, with this setup the fuel pump relay still oscillates on and off as the engine turns over. The only way I've managed to solve this is by taking the fuel pump control away from the Speeduino, and wiring it the same way as the other relays so it's on continuously while the ignition is on. After all that, it still doesn't want to start with one battery but I can hear the starter motor getting slower already and it's only been sitting for two days so a new battery might be needed anyway.

On a separate note, @Dagaz_Psi is your Speeduino Volvo still using the original idle control valve?

Cheers

[Cylinder 8]

It turns out my starting problems might not be battery related. Even with a fully charged battery and all the relays behaving as they should it still won't start. I've noticed during cranking the "full sync" light dropping to "no sync" briefly a few times, and there's no RPM signal at all. If I connect my other car to it with jump leads and leave that car running, so the Volvo has about 14 volts and turns over much faster, then it usually starts without a problem. So why is my crank sensor not happy unless the engine's turning over really quickly?

Here are some log files from cranking:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1r_ZrnV ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1tYhltp ... sp=sharing

Cheers

[Cylinder 8]

Of course as soon as I make a post about this I find a (potential) solution!

I changed the number of skip revolutions in the trigger setup from 1 to 0. I tried to start it again and after about a second it made a big noise and stopped. I presume this was starter motor kick back, which isn't something I've experienced before. So then I reduced the cranking ignition advance from 10 down to 5, and now it seems to start quickly and happily.

Can you tell I'm new to all this?

[theonewithin]

Haven't read everything but have you checked your timing is actually correct commanded vs actual?

[Cylinder 8]

Haven't read everything but have you checked your timing is actually correct commanded vs actual?

I have. I used a timing light to setup the crank trigger as I didn't know exactly how many degrees away from TDC the missing tooth was, so I know that's correct now.

[Dagaz_Psi]

No Im not running iac at the moment.
For reference
86 degree trigger angle
17 degree crank angle and at idle.

[Cylinder 8]

Thanks

I got fed up trying to make the IAC valve work properly. I've currently got the throttle stop set so "closed" is enough air for about 1100rpm or so and the ignition timing at idle set at about 4 degrees to keep the engine down at 950rpm when up to temperature. I've setup the idle ignition control to keep it steady and it seems to work pretty well.

I'm now trying to work out what to do about the rev counter. I've read about using a relay and transistor to replicate the pulses the original rev counter would have got from the coil but I don't really want a relay clicking away constantly and my original counter's always been a bit dodgy anyway. I might get an aftermarket one and make it fit in the original cluster somehow.

Does anyone know if the Speeduion tacho output is the right signal type for aftermarket rev counters (square wave)?

[Dagaz_Psi]

You can use the stock revcounter. The uac got a tacho output just needs a 1k pullup resistor from 12v.
Connect that to the red/white cabel from the igniter connector and bobs your aunt.