[Datto91]

So I have no luck desoldering the MOSFETS so i broke them off at the base of their legs and will wire the fuel pump to ign on 12v then later this week I will use some breadboard wires and solder the mosfets remotely like like this . I HATE DESOLDERING !!!

Should invest in a solder sucker like 9 bucks then all you do is add more solder and click the button and it sucks it up ...

I have a horrible feeling that I've just noticed a problem on the v0.4 board that you might have been the first to pick up though
The labels on the board for Q3 and Q2 appear to be the wrong way round. Where you've put the 2nd MOSFET over in the corner is actually the injector 3 circuit, not injector 2. You'll need to move that mosfet over the the place labelled Q3.

Iassume this only applys to 2 channel boards. does it affect the pin out on the IDC or should i be good with my 4 channel?

[wt29]

Spend a little extra and get a GOOD solder sucker.

I had one of those 150mm el-cheapos and it didn't work real well. I coughed up for the $AU29-
"Goot" (Japanese brand) and it made all the difference.

Gotta have the right tools.

[evo_lucian]

Spend a little extra and get a GOOD solder sucker.

I had one of those 150mm el-cheapos and it didn't work real well. I coughed up for the $AU29-
"Goot" (Japanese brand) and it made all the difference.

Gotta have the right tools.

I got a cheap chinese one aswell, I think it cost like $3 USD. It really doesn't do much, and it pretty much fell apart the first time i tried using it. It presentlyy is being held by electrical tape. i will invest in a good sucker and some solder wick.

[Old Grey]

Rocking it is still tough because you need 3 hands, but if you have a vice or someone else on the iron it's doable.

Nothing beats a sucker, but hey, I'm cheap.

I suppose you could tie a thin wire to the component and step on the wire, hold the board upside down, and hit all 3 joints with an iron and pull it out - did I mention I'm cheap, lol -.

I liked your ECU socket, because you need a reliable connection if you want to drive around, so I looked for one for mine. But when I saw the prices, I quickly realised that a full loom is probably going to cost more than the Speeduino it'self.

[evo_lucian]

Rocking it is still tough because you need 3 hands, but if you have a vice or someone else on the iron it's doable.

Nothing beats a sucker, but hey, I'm cheap.

I suppose you could tie a thin wire to the component and step on the wire, hold the board upside down, and hit all 3 joints with an iron and pull it out - did I mention I'm cheap, lol -.

I liked your ECU socket, because you need a reliable connection if you want to drive around, so I looked for one for mine. But when I saw the prices, I quickly realised that a full loom is probably going to cost more than the Speeduino it'self.

I liked the idea of using the thin wire but I usually just call my Girlfriend to help, she would just hold on to the component with a long nose pliers while i do the rest.

For my ecu sockect, I just scavenged the plug from an old obd1 honda ecu, cost me $0.00

[evo_lucian]

VR conditioner
vr2.png (81.28 KiB) Viewed 6720 times

vr.png (39.3 KiB) Viewed 6720 times

Digikey part #
300R resistor = 330QBK-ND
18K resistor = 18KQBK-ND
39K resistor = 39KQBK-ND
4K7 resistor = 4.7KQBK-ND
1M resistor = 1MQBK-ND
0.01uF Cap = P3103-ND
0.33uF Cap = P10973-ND
330pF Cap = PS1331J-ND
0.1uF Cap = P10967-ND
LM1815N = LM1815N-ND

Tryna figure out the exact location for the specific components on this board. I am currently at work so I cant check for myself, need to get it figured out so I can solder it up sometime tomorrow

[cx500tc]

Best I can tell is:
R1 is 300 ohm
R2 is 18K ohm
R3 is 1 Meg ohm
R4 is 4.7 K ohm
R5 is 39 K ohm
C1 is 330pF
C2 is 0.33uF
C3 is 0.1uF
C4 is 0.01uF

From there it shouldn't be too hard to figure out which what goes where since the R's and C's are labeled on the vr2.png image.

[dazq]

Gave it the once over already and the component numbers on the layout piccy tally with the first circuit diagram OK both caps and resistors
R1 - 1m
R2 - 18k
R3 - 300r
R4 - 4k7
R5 - 39k

C1 - .33uf
C2 - 330pf
C3 - 0.1uf
C4 - 0.01uf

Any help?

[cx500tc]

yeah, I fugged it up.

But has everything labeled, even if it is a little difficult to make out things.

[RichCreations]

Gave it the once over already and the component numbers on the layout piccy tally with the first circuit diagram OK both caps and resistors
R1 - 1m
R2 - 18k
R3 - 300r
R4 - 4k7
R5 - 39k

C1 - .33uf
C2 - 330pf
C3 - 0.1uf
C4 - 0.01uf

Any help?

This is the correct one...