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For discussion of Speeduino compatible boards designed / built by other members of the forum and for guidance around making such a board
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By evolwun
#42532
A little off-topic (and hopefully allowed)....

I was wondering if anyone would be willing to assemble one of these for me? I am not sure if anyone out there is selling them, Pazi? I wish I had the time... I just don't.
By classicdaily
#42534
Well -114 isn't working either. Seems like I have something else wrong or went bad.
I am not getting any spark at the actual plug. LEDs are flashing but no spark out at the plug.

I put it in test mode and I do get 5v at each coil driver when turn on each ignition output.

Possible that the drivers all could have went bad? Not sure how 4 drivers would go bad though.

Any suggestions?
By pazi88
#42537
Yeah. Don't get the components from aliexpress, eBay etc. :?
evolwun wrote:
Tue Apr 28, 2020 6:45 pm
A little off-topic (and hopefully allowed)....

I was wondering if anyone would be willing to assemble one of these for me? I am not sure if anyone out there is selling them, Pazi? I wish I had the time... I just don't.
Not these excact ones, because making lot of through hole boards for sale isn't really worth it. These are mainly meant for people that want to build their owm boards. But as far as I know, DIY-Efi uk should be getting core4 based ones for sale and WTMTronix at US will be making smd ones for sale too.
By classicdaily
#42547
Ok new drivers did it. It’s running.

Having a bit of an issue at start up though and might just be tube related but I did find one thing.

Before it fires it wants to spit and pop almost like a backfire. Then after 5-6 revolutions then it takes and runs smooth.

In your schematic you have pin 3 on the 88 pin connector as injector 2/4 when the pin out from bmw says those are 1/3. Not sure this matters as it is paired/batch fuel but could the fuel be spraying at the wrong time and affect start up?
By pazi88
#42565
classicdaily wrote:
Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:49 pm
It's starting/running much better now. Switched trigger to rising instead of falling. Tooth logger is showing a much cleaner signal.
Yeah the older PCBs need it to be rising. I posted earlier how the tooth logger should look when set correctly.

Also you can try setting the cranking advance lower to try if that helps.
By classicdaily
#42571
cool cool, just went back through and found that post. Thanks
I'll get a different cap and also change that. Once and awhile I can feel blips of loss up on higher constant rpms.

With it set at rising I needed to adjust the crank trigger angle a bit with a timing light to get things on.

Waiting on a wideband then I can spend some time tuning it a bit more. But for now it runs pretty damn good.
By Yukon101
#42757
I'm building the board for a M60B40, I have version 2.0. Something I have noticed is there are only 6 MOSFETS for the injection side. On the BOM it says to put them in spots Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4, Q5, Q7, Q8 however Q5, Q7, and Q8 do not exist on the board.
What do I do here?
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